tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63424345782067992062024-03-21T23:01:09.246+00:00Paddle AwayJames Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.comBlogger70125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-56234322491803119182020-06-30T15:53:00.012+01:002021-10-10T19:11:18.891+01:00Greenland Kayak Balance Stool – Issiaveeraq qajaasarfik - DRILLS<div><p class="MsoTitle"><br /></p>
<div style="background: rgb(6, 115, 165); border: 3pt solid rgb(6, 115, 165); mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 0cm;">
<h1><span lang="">Drills<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
</div><br /></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">UPDATE: No. 1 22/12/2020</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal">I suggest that before you start working through the drills you read my previous post which describes the origins of the Balance Stool and the aim of these drills.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">STAGE
1 - Set Up <o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">Stand or sit in front of your mirror.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">Place the paddle on the top of your head. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">Position your hands so that they are equally spaced on the paddle shaft so that they form two right angles in your arms. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang=""><b>Angle A </b>This is the angle between your forearm and your bicep. Angle <b>A</b> for Arm</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang=""><b>Angle B </b> This is the angle between and your body and your biceps. Angle <b>B </b>for Body</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">These are the two 90 degrees. Now swivel the shoulders forward and push the shaft forward away from
your head until a 45 deg angle is formed between your horizontal biceps and
your forearms. The two 90 deg angles A and B do not change. This now sets up 90 x 90 x
45 using both arms.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">To go to
the set up position pull the right shoulder blade all the way back to a comfortable
position. This described as putting your shoulder blade into its back pocket. At the same time rotate the torso and hips. Do not change the form that you have created
with your arms. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang=""><b>Pivot </b>- An important part of the stroke is the formation of a pivot using the front hand before the catch and power phase. Try to go into the set up position whilst forming the pivot each time. Extend the left hand first as described below then raise the right hand. This is done in air time. If the front hand is lowered too early, power is lost and a <b>low angle</b> stroke is set up.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"> Lower and
extend the left arm towards the mirror. Position the left hand so that when viewed
in the mirror it is between your top lip and your nose. In the boat you should just be able to see the bow under your hand. Do not fully straighten
your left arm. Providing the top arm still forms 90 x 90 x 45 this is the set
up position. Repeat several times each side until this positioning becomes
second nature whilst also working on your balance.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">Use the <b>90 x 90 x 45</b> rule as a
default position. If you are not stable
in this position you are starting each stroke from a position of weakness. If
wobbling too much whilst working on other drills return to this position. Work
on the set up constantly so that you automatically set up the Pivot and start each stroke from here.
It should be a position of strength.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points
to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Top arm </span><b><span lang="">90 x 90x 45</span></b><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Shoulder blade pulled back under tension and in 'the back pocket'</span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Relaxed hand grip on paddle shaft fingers loose.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Lower
hand extended elbow down and not fully straightened. Loose hand on the
paddle shaft.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Look in
the mirror lower hand should line up somewhere around your top lip or nose.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Leg on
top hand side extended but not fully.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Hip on
this side pulled back.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Torso
rotated from the hips, waist and shoulders.
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Knee
raised towards the elbow of the lower arm. Hip pulled forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Sit tall
through the top of your head, fight against the urge to slouch which is caused
by the heels being at the same height as your sitting bones.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Hold this
position for a few minutes or five 'Yoga' breaths then relax and repeat on the other side.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not
attempt a stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPp7J2AxaW7NCXi3iXmdznC4GB2DDSesgbVPkqzXnmASujLj5p83EfDVlgux_KxTbTWd9IowmB5VrC8fB6MVPMOjJdBsG7K_hiFmkj_l78TYRxA26hoxPjVa-EIxd0u9HwIwfrGiUCF4/s236/Tim+B.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="205" data-original-width="236" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPp7J2AxaW7NCXi3iXmdznC4GB2DDSesgbVPkqzXnmASujLj5p83EfDVlgux_KxTbTWd9IowmB5VrC8fB6MVPMOjJdBsG7K_hiFmkj_l78TYRxA26hoxPjVa-EIxd0u9HwIwfrGiUCF4/w313-h270/Tim+B.jpg" title="Tim Brabants showing a perfect 90 x 90 x 45" width="313" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tim Brabants setting up with 90 x 90 x 45</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span><p></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MLmzFl0evv5lKso6VBXVyQVYnqvOwaqjZJnZOrzY-vU8XPJRlzdJFvUV8kybbqw2tmuiya4YtLSA6gblFIFM-U_1W_SwCgcTCHs0vaXilGlKrfsFtwyN9_5G-ufWlTnmX_Qx1vGSWfs/s327/photo+90+90+45.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="327" data-original-width="236" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MLmzFl0evv5lKso6VBXVyQVYnqvOwaqjZJnZOrzY-vU8XPJRlzdJFvUV8kybbqw2tmuiya4YtLSA6gblFIFM-U_1W_SwCgcTCHs0vaXilGlKrfsFtwyN9_5G-ufWlTnmX_Qx1vGSWfs/s320/photo+90+90+45.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another example of the set up showing the 45 deg from a side view.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">NOTE:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">The 90 x
90 x 45 rule in these drills enables the position of the arms to be measured
and adjusted when viewed in the mirror. These angles may well vary as you
develop your own style according to what you find most comfortable and the
constraints of the type of boat you are paddling. For instance as you become
fatigued you may well see the elbows start to drop so Angle <b>B </b>decreases. Provided the elbows do not drop
too far this should not be a problem. However, if the elbows go high and start
to <b>fly</b> this would need to be corrected.</span><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
One – One handed Catch<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: To get the feel of placing the
blade at the catch experiencing pressure from the top shoulder and elbow down the shaft
towards the opposite knee. This is done<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>without using
rotation or pulling the top arm forward with the lower arm which results in a loss of angle <b>A</b>. This can be seen in the mirror because the top hand moves closer to your head.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set up using the mirror and check your form
and angles, <b>90 x 90 x 45</b>. Rotate fully, top hand and shoulder blade back,
lower hand forward. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Release lower hand completely, let the end of the
shaft drop naturally, plant blade using subtle pressure from the top shoulder and elbow putting a little pressure down the shaft. Repeat several times both sides.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Try to reduce to a minimum any rotation of
the torso.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Watch for angle A being closed and your hand moving closer to your head</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Plant the paddle/shaft in the crook of the
ankle.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not start a stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Two – Two handed Catch<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: As drill one, To get the feel of
placing the blade at the catch from the top shoulder and without using rotation
or pulling with the lower arm.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The same movement as drill two without
influence from the lower hand.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a name="_Hlk508557290"><span lang="">Set Up using the
mirror and check your angles</span></a><span lang="">. Rotate fully front
and back, top hand back, lower hand forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Catch using top shoulder, rotate and drop.
Pressure down the shaft, lean on the power blade.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times each side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The same as drill one.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Constantly check top arm to maintain 90 x
90 x 45, movement comes from the shoulder.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not lose Angle <b>A</b></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Top hand should keep the same distance from
your head though out the drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times each side, do not
attempt a stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Three – Catch & Pull<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Purpose: To complete a full catch working on the points of drills one and two</span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles <b>90 x 90 x 45</b>. Rotate fully forward and back, top hand and shoulder blade back, lower
hand forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">As per drill two plant the catch using the
top shoulder and elbow, minimise rotation of the torso drop the end of the shaft towards
the crook of the ankle. Pressure down the shaft, lean on the power blade.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Pull through to just <b>30cm</b><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Low brace back using the stroke arm, keep
hand low and close to the board as if doing a back paddle. Feel the stroke hand
pushing the top hand to the rear so each hand works together and not
independently. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set up as before and pull <b>30cm</b><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times each side<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">All as drill one and two.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Keep both elbows down<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Only pull 30 cm, this is not a stroke
drill. The bottom of the shaft should not pass your knee on the stroke side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Feel as if you are planting the whole blade
by the completion of the drill<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYKEPWzsS4UZfbeAh1QA4e2iI1kvipToIJ40TIcMRsJkrocaYfdE6YsFWIoLI_Gk37DSPdl9HopgaoJpGhEa8Cm3GNGuyOtBqhxpagEVsrvDf0_tWcuTZJ-cqzyCbo-fhcMl9dCXSPxU/s236/Rachel+C.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="177" data-original-width="236" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYKEPWzsS4UZfbeAh1QA4e2iI1kvipToIJ40TIcMRsJkrocaYfdE6YsFWIoLI_Gk37DSPdl9HopgaoJpGhEa8Cm3GNGuyOtBqhxpagEVsrvDf0_tWcuTZJ-cqzyCbo-fhcMl9dCXSPxU/w461-h345/Rachel+C.jpg" width="461" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rachel Schofield (Cawthorn) shows just how far forward you can place the Catch.<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
four – Top Hand<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: to programme the brain not to push
with the top hand. This is poor technique which encourages the paddle shaft to
go through the vertical position (viewed from the side ) and into the negative
power phase.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">This is a drill, you will obviously never
paddle like this.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up including the Pivot using the mirror and check your form
and angles. 90 x 90 x 45<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Look at top hand continuously.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a name="_Hlk508561834"><span lang="">‘Rotate and drop’ as in drill three<o:p></o:p></span></a></p>
<span style="mso-bookmark: _Hlk508561834;"></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Maintain the posture of top hand which only
moves forward with the rotation of the body. Do not lose angle <b>A </b>or your 45 deg angle<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Low brace back, set up and repeat several
times both sides. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Look at top hand throughout the drill and
<b>NOT</b> the blade.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not let the top hand over rotate passed
the centre line of the boat<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
five – Locked elbows<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose – To get the feel of using the core
muscles for rotation and to minimise the use of the arms.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles. 90 x 90 x 45 but with no top or lower arm so that the shaft is
horizontal across your chest. Angle <b>B </b>will try to close.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Rotate fully back and then forward on each side,
maintain the position of both the top and lower arms rotating only with the
core.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set up and repeat several times both sides.
Look in the mirror throughout this drill to check your posture.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Sit upright lift your chest, try not to
slouch. If you are feeling tension in the hips consider adding some exercises
to loosen your hip aductors.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Maintain the position of your arms, all the
movement comes from the core.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not be concerned with moving the legs. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">NOTE:</span></b><span lang=""> Until the following drill no mention has been made of utilising the
legs. This has been deliberate.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">It is only possible to focus fully on a
small number of movements at one time until the drills have become second
nature.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">There is no footrest on the Balance Board.
In a closed cockpit kayak it is easy for the legs to become passive. Rotation
of the torso is then minimal and the stroke becomes less effective. It is
important for the legs to be dynamic thus increasing the efficiency of the
transfer of power from the arms through the torso to the footrest. To
incorporate this into a drill the use of the legs needs to be over emphasised
by a full opening and stretching of the legs during the drill. A footrest would
inhibit this and the leg movement could once again become hidden. </span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Six – Core strength<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose : To emphasise and strengthen the
core muscles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Place the shaft parallel to the chest.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Drop the elbows and pull the shaft back so
that it is against the upper part of your chest.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Depending on your flexibility this will
probably put your body under quite a bit of tension.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Rotate forward and back to a comfortable
limit.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Cycle through a short paddle stroke whilst
keeping the shaft pulled back and across your chest. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Your first attempts at this drill will
probably produce a limited range of movement. This range will increase with
training.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The blade should only move through the
movement of the core muscles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Whilst cycling through the stroke start to
gently extend the legs as if pushing onto the footrest.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times on both sides.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Cycle your legs in sync with your arms.
Knee up on the stroke side at the start of the stroke this knee<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>then drops during the stroke and comes back
up as the shaft moves forward again. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Concentrate on one side only if this proves
too much to think about. Revert to both sides when your brain is in sync.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Try to also start using your hips as this
will aid rotation.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Your hip rotates back on the stroke side
and forward on the opposite side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Your heels should sliding up and down the
board so wearing socks might be useful.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Be aware of any pain under the shoulder
blades when first attempting this drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not overdo this drill. Limit the number of reps at first and increase the number gradually.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Seven – Paddling in default<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: To combine and develop the
movements of drills five and six<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>working
on the core/ trunk muscles and increasing the use of the legs.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set up with the paddle shaft just forward
but across your chest as per drill five.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Rotate back and to the rear with a relaxed
set up keeping the elbows down. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Drop the shaft with a partial catch and go
through a relaxed paddle stroke whilst maintaining the shaft parallel to your
chest.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The blade should only move through the
movement of the core muscles until you reach the recovery phase of the stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Whilst going through the paddle stroke the
legs should be fully extended <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times on both sides.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">This is a development of drills five and
six only, it is not meant to replicate a stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Keep your elbows down.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Make sure you are getting maximum leg
movement<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Use your hips as per drill six<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not concentrate on the catch phase too
much, just drop the paddle slightly.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Eight – Leg Drive<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose – To really emphasise the use of
the legs and to work on full extension at the hips.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles as per stage 1. Rotate fully, top hand back, lower hand forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Go through the catch phase using all the
principles used in the previous drills.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Pause<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Initiate the power phase using just
rotation. Ensure the leg fully extends and drive pressure into the hip. Pull
the hip back to fully work the hip joint. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Push the opposite hip forward<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Pause and feel the tension in both hips<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Leave the paddle shaft down and return to
the start of the power phase on the same side using a back brace/stroke. The
elbow on this side should be down.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The return stroke pushes the other hand
back using torso rotation.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Bring the stroke side knee back up at the
same time.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">You should now be back in the catch
position as per drill two.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times staying on one side before switching to the opposite side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Do not
rush this drill<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Think
about the power phase as you concentrate on the leg drive<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Rotate
the hips and feel the tension<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Watch
that the top arm does not extend.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="" style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p> </o:p></span> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Nine – Shoulder<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: To programme the shoulder and shoulder blade to fully
return to the rear at the end of the stroke. Remember shoulder blade into the back pocket.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">This<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> is </span>to maximise rotation and create tension at the start of the next stroke.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles. Rotate fully, top hand back, lower hand forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Look at and focus on the top shoulder
whilst carrying out drill Eight look at the shoulder and NOT the blade.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Try to over emphasise the top shoulder to
return fully to the rear and feel tension in the shoulder joint and Rotator Cuff mucles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Low brace back to the catch position, set
up and repeat several times both sides. Look at the top shoulder on the stroke
side throughout the drill.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat several times on both sides.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">You will not have a horizon whilst doing
this drill so you will have to use all your other senses to balance.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">If you do capsize use the paddle shaft as
support and not your hands.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">A note on shoulders<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Both the catch and this drill require a
flexible shoulder. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Shoulder injuries in paddling occur far too
often most often in the Rotator Cuff muscles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">I strongly recommend that all paddlers
should work on strengthening their Rotator Cuff Muscles and regularly use a set of Indian Clubs.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Indian Clubs are a completely different
subject in their own right with lots of information on the net.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Ten – Exit and Recovery<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: To reduce the tendency to exit
past the hip and to complete the power phase of the stroke as far forward as
possible and soon after the shaft passes the vertical point when viewed from the
side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles. Rotate fully, top hand back, lower hand forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Go through the catch and pull phase as per
drill number three.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">This time pull and power the blade back as
far as the knee.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Exit the blade by just lifting it out of
the water with the back of the hand facing to the rear and keeping the elbow
low..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Low brace back and repeat several times on
each side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">Points to watch</span></b><span lang="">:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not rush this drill<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">By the time you reach this stage all the
other drills should be embedded.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Do not complete the stroke, stop just
before the set up position as per stage 1<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Make sure that your stroke elbow is down,
the back of the hand faces to the rear and there is space under the arm between
your bicep and rib cage.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Concentrate on a good catch and carry out
all your work in front of the knee.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">You will probably still find yourself
lifting the paddle out by your hip so concentrate on working further forward.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="">Drill
Eleven – Put it all together<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose<b>: Using all the drills</b> to
paddle smoothly and maintain posture.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Set Up using the mirror and check your
angles.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Go through the catch and pull phase as per
drill number three.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Pull and power the blade back as far as the
knee.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Exit the blade by just lifting it out of
the water with the back of the hand facing to the rear and keeping the elbow
low..<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Recover back to the set up position as per
stage 1<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat this once the other side and then
once more on this side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">PAUSE<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">You should now have completed three stroke
cycles and be set up on the other side.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Once again repeat <b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>THREE </b>stroke cycles<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">PAUSE<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">You should now be back at your original
starting position, this is one full cycle.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Repeat this cycle as many times as you wish
using all the drills you have learned.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><b>Drill Twelve</b> - Three strokes drill finishing with extended rotation. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Purpose: A development of Drill Eleven to further work on balance and rotation.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Cycle through drill eleven and pause after the third stroke. Rotate further across the board and touch the outside of the opposite foot with the power end of the paddle shaft. Repeat on the opposite side.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang=""><b>NOTE</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">For further information on purchasing a <b>Balance Stool</b> or to book a <b>Zoom Class</b></span> please email me at:</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="">jamesmpigdon@gmail.com</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p><br /></div>James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-80564392880086742302020-06-18T16:32:00.019+01:002020-12-22T17:01:48.252+00:00Greenland Kayak Balance Stool - Issiaveeraq qajaasarfik<p class="MsoTitle"><br /></p>
<div style="background: rgb(6, 115, 165); border: 3pt solid rgb(6, 115, 165); mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 0cm;">
<h1><span lang="">Introduction<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Issaveeraq qajaasarfik roughly translates
to Kayak Learning Stool. In order to preserve<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Greenland heritage and
history of the Board<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>this has been
adapted to Greenland Kayak Balance Stool . There is a replica on display in the
museum at Tasiilaq on the East coast of Greenland. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hR0vrII2qPC2GhajeBNHtwX_ivp2FMm4_OrOO9Cozoy2n-oHF73cKGWFRK9aPnQUSMRdW6zIqdnsFtUUNrKr_Affra7ioPV7u7ZsZ4iWJje9PE9LBMsJ4xvccZGgO9fTkEV_D6rd8gE/s1280/Anngannguajuk.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="439" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_hR0vrII2qPC2GhajeBNHtwX_ivp2FMm4_OrOO9Cozoy2n-oHF73cKGWFRK9aPnQUSMRdW6zIqdnsFtUUNrKr_Affra7ioPV7u7ZsZ4iWJje9PE9LBMsJ4xvccZGgO9fTkEV_D6rd8gE/w781-h439/Anngannguajuk.jpg" width="781" /></a></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">The Danish
Researcher H.C. Petersen, on page 10, of his book
"Qaannamik pinnguaatit", Atuakkiorfik, 1994, has written that
the balance stool in Greenlandic is called: "Issiaveeraq
qajaasarfik".</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; mso-hyphenate: auto; mso-vertical-align-alt: auto;"><span style="color: #222222; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><b><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Quote:<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Boys, when
growing up, become progressively good travellers but are too young to use a
kayak. At this time they already have and use (playing) spears. They start with
a piece of unfurnished wood which they play with all day long. The spear is
only furnished when they grow older.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> At
home, they are given a small chair. It is elongated, approximately the same
size as the boys thighs. The legs (on the chair) are boards, placed on the
further ends of the chair, the part touching the floor is curved. Therefore it
is prone to wobble which is exactly the purpose. The boy is sat on the chair
placing his legs on the longest part. He (really moves his thighs), and
capsizes a lot. But when given a kammiut (a wooden tool for softening kamiks)
as a paddle, he learns not to capsize that often. Mother's kammiut makes the
boy feel he is kayaking for real.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> When
father is already home, when the family is about to eat, the father or the
grandfather gives the boy seal ribs to rip (with his teeth) telling him to eat
it while sitting on the chair, telling him to eat the ribs</span></i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> while <i>holding
it with both hands. The boy, while ripping, tries to sit upright, using his
body his arms bent on his elbows and (using) his legs to sit upright. </i></span><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> The
chair is used by the boys to practice on to sit upright on a kayak before
getting a kayak. Long time ago it has been used. How far it has spread is hard
to say. It was rare in the 1900's so the memory of it is limited. <o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><i><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMxOhASx7dvbBQRK_1VGTIylqomXtwzabBwKxCkvt1HT-iupjsquwWDAausPO9A_iZStvSW_3WIYBqCJrWbQcf8vS8MiXcCn3zqlS_dlBNNMLfAISK_soX4mO7948uC4vW0TPsK-5ZFA/s1280/Bal+Board+dwg+in+book.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="351" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMxOhASx7dvbBQRK_1VGTIylqomXtwzabBwKxCkvt1HT-iupjsquwWDAausPO9A_iZStvSW_3WIYBqCJrWbQcf8vS8MiXcCn3zqlS_dlBNNMLfAISK_soX4mO7948uC4vW0TPsK-5ZFA/w625-h351/Bal+Board+dwg+in+book.jpg" width="625" /></a></i></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">(Text under picture)</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">A small chair 'where you pretend to be a kayaker' where boys practice
sitting upright.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt; mso-hyphenate: auto;"><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">Grateful thanks to</span><span style="color: black; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-size: 13.5pt; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">: </span><b><span style="color: #222222; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Aviâja Rosing Jakobsen</span></b><span style="color: #222222; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">, <i>Curator Greenland National Museum &
Archives in Nuuk Greenland for the information.</i></span><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt; mso-hyphenate: auto;"><b><span style="color: #222222; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">Dina Fisker Sandgreen</span></b><span style="color: #222222; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;"> <i>@ Qeqertarsuaq Museum Greenland for the
translation.</i></span><span lang=""><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 8pt; mso-hyphenate: auto;"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">How can this piece of Inuit equipment help
the modern day kayaker?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By improving
balance for paddling a kayak whilst working on core strength, flexibility,
posture, alignment and muscle memory during the stroke.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Consider this extract from the <b>ICF
Coaching Manual:</b><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang=""><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">5.2<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>BALANCE<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="">Good balance is critical to successful
canoeing. Balance is always a factor for paddlers, from the beginner to the
elite athlete. A strong sense of balance becomes more and not less as paddlers
advance to racing.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="">The characteristics of the practice of
canoeing determine that the stability of the paddle and therefore the boat is
considered of great importance in the technical training of athletes. If the
paddler cannot solve his stability problems in the kayak or canoe it will
result in development becoming partially or wholly limited.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="">Any paddle motion that involves
correcting the balance of the boat directly takes away from the propulsion of
the vessel thus reducing the forward speed.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="">The stability of the paddler depends on
several internal and external conditions.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="">Internal conditions are weight , height,
sense of balance age etc, all these can be controlled by the paddler. The
external elements are wind ,waves and currents which cannot be controlled by
the paddler.<o:p></o:p></span></i></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="">BETTER BALANCE COMES WITH PRACTISE.<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The next part of the ICF Manual includes a
matrix titled the The Seven<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Faces of
Training. Stage one is all balance. This reduces to fifty per cent on stage two
and twenty five per cent on stage three. Balance only disappears when the
paddler is considered to be at an advanced stage.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">This part of the ICF manual is confirmation
that improving a paddlers balance is of critical importance to improving speed
and efficiency.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">When we first start paddling some of us are taught
using the simple but well known four stage formula of Catch, Power, Recovery
and Set Up. As we progress beyond beginner to intermediate and beyond we
naturally develop slightly different paddling styles and techniques but still
utilising the original basic formula. It is for the individual to mould and
adapt their variations of this basic technique<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>to produce a style which they are<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>comfortable with. The effectiveness of different styles and equipment varies. The pursuit of the ultimate stroke is a journey which has no end. It is
important to be constantly thinking about your stroke and to keep it under
review. You should never sit back and think for one moment that you have
cracked it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The Balance Stool provides a valuable land
based resource to supplement and assist training and learning. This is
especially so when conditions are not conducive to paddling for instance when
it is<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cold, dark, wet and windy
outside or we are in Lockdown and are not permitted to paddle on water. It is particularly useful for introducing paddlers to the interaction
between the various components of the body which are used during the cycle of
the four main parts of the stroke. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">It is written that One stroke cycle involves twenty five
thousand muscle movements and is one of the hardest movements to learn in
sport.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">There is a saying in Yoga, once a week is a
pastime, two or three times a week is a hobby. Six times a week is a way of
life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are to learn and
efficiently coordinate these twenty five thousand movements then the same applies
to paddling. To improve and learn you must spend time to practise. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">There is a wealth of knowledge currently on
the internet with lots of really useful videos. In order to
transfer this information to the boat you must first understand the information
given out by the various coaches and then practice it. This practice needs to
be, correctly learnt and then repeated numerous times for it to become natural
otherwise old habits will return. Any time spent being coached and watching videos will have been wasted. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The board is basic and without any moving
parts. It can be frustrating when you try to decide what to actually do with
it. You can sit on it and practice your stroke or wobble from side to side. A
big mistake, often made, is to think that the board is some form of Ergo or
paddling machine. This is not what it is designed for. Also just like a cycle
turbo trainer unless there is some set programme to work to the chances are you
will become bored very quickly.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">For most, if not all of your sessions on
the board you are going to be on your own and without the benefit of a coach.
If you are to achieve the aim of using the board several times a week you will
need to become self reliant and able to see and adjust your form in real time
as you go through the drills. The ultimate goal is for you to coach yourself.
To achieve this a mirror is strongly recommended when carrying out these
drills. It should be propped up at the front of the board. This is essential
for you to check your set up prior to each drill. What you think and feel you
are doing is quite often very different to what you are actually doing. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">To use the board you will need <b>a)</b> a
mirror as just described <b>b)</b> a paddle shaft without blades. Once you
understand the 90 x 90 x 45 rule described in Stage 1 you should mark the
inside of your hand position on the paddle shaft with insulating tape. You will
be able to quickly readjust your hand position should they move or slip.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">The stability of the board can be adjusted
by varying the floor surface under the board. A hard smooth surface such as
tiles will make the board less stable than a deep pile carpet or Yoga mat.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">When you first sit on the board remember
the phrase: <b>WHEN IN DOUBT FEET OUT</b> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Where feasible perfect each drill with your
feet on the floor before bringing them onto the board.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="">Below is a list of drills which<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>have been adapted for use on the Board.</span></p><br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com1Greenland71.706936 -42.60430343.396702163821153 -77.760553 90 -7.4480530000000016tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-22051447645808914432016-11-27T21:20:00.001+00:002020-07-10T11:12:49.935+01:00Searching for Gino Watkins 2016 - The Expedition.The journey to East Greenland is now a well worn path. After sixteen years Martin Rickard<br />
<a href="http://seakayakadventures.co.uk/">http://seakayakadventures.co.uk/</a> has assisted many paddlers from the UK, and other places from all around the world, to enjoy the paddling, wild life and culture of this unique location.<br />
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Martin was already in Tasiilaq having already completed one trip so after flying from London Heathrow I met the other team members the following morning at the Downtown Hostel Reykjavik. Donna was on my ill fated 2014 trip and it was great to meet her again in much better circumstances. Geoff had visited Greenland recently with his wife and he was now ready to embark on our new venture. John had flown in from Copenhagen and was just as keen to get started.<br />
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After more than one coffee we decided to pay a visit to the Whale Museum which is situated near to the large harbour complex. The Museum provides each visitor with a tablet and ear phones at the reception. You are then free to wander around the full size exhibits whilst being educated as to each species' appearances, food, habits etc. This was to prove very useful later in the trip.<br />
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As usual the rain was bucketing it down in Reykjavik and we were more than pleased to get on the morning flight to Kulusuk the next day.<br />
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We met the members of Martin's previous trip in the small airport terminal and were given a brief insight into their experiences. Apparently they had seen Whales virtually every day they were paddling and noted at least five different species. It was a Bluebird day for our arrival and Greenland was looking its best for us. We managed to flag down a local 4 x 4 and for a suitable fee the driver dropped all our kit down to the quay for us. This was a relief because with my food and kit I was carrying over 40kg. Geoff with his camera equipment was carrying considerably more and its about 1.5 Km from the airport down a dusty road to the quayside.<br />
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The boat pick up was on time and already waiting. It did not take us long to load our gear and we were soon on our way. There was little ice about and the sea was flat calm so we had a smooth ride over to Tasiilaq. Morale was high with lots of friendly banter. We were all excited at being back on Greenland waters. This is such an amazing place.<br />
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Martin was on the rocks near Vietnam Beach and helped unload all our gear and carry it up to the camping area. We call this site Vietnam Beach because the Heliport is situated right next door and we are regularly buzzed by numerous helicopters. The large one which connects with Kulusuk airport is bright red and looks and sounds like something from Apocalypse now. We do need to rig up some large speakers so that we can blast out The Ride of The Valkyries.<br />
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All of us had done this before so we quickly got our tents up and reacquainted ourselves with our boats. It felt good wandering around Tasiilaq. The hills did not seem so steep this time and I knew where everything was. We visited the Tourist Information Office at Destination East Greenland and the large Pilersuisoq supermarket to buy gas canisters for our stoves. Gas has only been readily available here for the past three years and this was the first trip that we could rely only on gas and not petrol which is smelly and dirty and a pain to carry on a kayak. I managed to purchase a large hand line for fishing. I was hoping to catch some Cod similar to the ones I caught two years ago when Mikkel, a local hunter took me on a fishing trip out of Tasiilaq.<br />
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We eventually made our way to the one and only bar in Tasiilaq. The coast of East Greenland is 2700km long and has a population of only four thousand people. Two thousand of these people live in or around Tasiilaq and a bar is quite rare in these parts. The bar was empty when we entered. It had been done out since I was last here with a large flat screen tv, posh subdued lighting and new timber furniture. We took a table in the corner and started to swap sea kayaking stories. Soon the bar started to fill with locals. Seven o'clock is Bingo time and this is very popular. The locals were a little surprised but obviously excited to see us and soon our table was surrounded by lots of smiling faces curious to know who we were and where we from. The questions flew fast and quick. 'where you from ?' - Wales, have you heard of Wales? ' yes of course, Gareth Bale'<br />
Where you from ?, Tasmania, where? Australia ah yes we have heard of Australia.<br />
Rasmus drew up a stool and started to interrogate Donna. Where you from? USA ah yes America. Their English was broken at times but a lot better than our Greenlandic. Rasmus was fascinated that Donna was a Grandmother and reckoned that she was 'awesome' He had some strong views on the fact that Greenland had Uranium and we were asked to share our opinion on this.<br />
Eventually we were asked what we were doing in Tasiilaq. We explained that we were going to Tugtilik which did not go down too well because it was a long way North and the ice was dangerous. When we then explained that we were going by kayak we were told ' Ah so - <b>You are not Tourists, you are Kayakers.' </b><br />
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<b>Wednesday 27 July</b><br />
First day of the Expedition proper. The pick up boat was due at 11 am. We packed our kit and dropped any kit not needed on the trip up to the steel containers which form Martins base in Greenland. It would stay there for nearly three weeks where all of it would then acquire the distinctive smell of fibreglass, but at least that would help to hide the fact that we would not shower in all that time.<br />
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We managed a last minute shop for cakes and coffemate. Geoff and myself were able to sneak into the new Community building for a last visit to a flush toilet. This would be the last one until we got back to Iceland in three weeks.<br />
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Two boats arrived, one for us and our kit, the other one for the kayaks. The sun was out and it was very warm. We donned our drysuits but left the tops down and wore our normal coats on top. We were due to make a wet landing on to a beach or rocks and did not want to get soaked. Once near to the water the temperature dropped noticeably and when the boat was under way the wind chill dropped the temperature even further. It is very easy to get caught out like this. The boat had a cover to the front but was fully loaded. The kit had to be moved aft to trim the boat and allow it to get onto the plane.<br />
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We headed out of Kong Oscars Haven which is the Fjord that leads to Tasiilaq and its harbour. There were some huge icebergs at the entrance which provided good photo opportunities. We first headed East back towards Kulusuk and then North up Angmagssalik Fjord. Once opposite to North End of Angmassalik Island we turned right into a very picturesque Fjord that I had paddled three years ago. There is a marker post at this junction to show the way. The sea conditions were good and we wanted to take the route outside of the islands up to Sermiligaq.<br />
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The journey was 80 km in bright sunshine and on a calm sea, conditions could not have been better. Our plan was to land on a beach West of Sermiligaq and then paddle North for a couple of hours to the 'Slabs' campsite just South of Sarfaq Pynt. Because the conditions were so good we were able to persuade the boat drivers to take us direct to The Slabs. This saved a lot of faffing packing and unpacking the kayaks. <br />
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We call this campsite The Slabs because the landing is direct onto large flat and smooth rocks. There is no beach at all. The boats were unloaded and we waved goodbye to the drivers. The time we gained enabled us to chill for the remainder of the day sorting our kit and practising packing the kayaks. This set us up for a great start the following morning. We were now on our own for the next seventeen days. We set up our tents but left the fly sheets off until the sun started to set behind the mountains because it was so warm. Just South of the campsite back towards Sermiligaq there is a small water source where we were able to top up our water bags. I had a go at fishing with my new hand line and Geoff had plenty of time to practise setting up his bear trip wires. Geoff had more success than I did.<br />
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<b>Thursday 28 July</b><br />
Our first day paddling. We quickly got into the routine of breaking camp and packing the kayaks. Launching the kayaks requires a full team effort as it takes four of us to lift one fully loaded kayak. We first headed North and turned around Sarfaq Pynt in a South Easterly direction. There were large ice bergs here and a numerous Glaciers to the North.<br />
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We needed to top up our water bags once more and found a large waterfall just before we rounded a headland to turn North East. There were no landings between The Slabs and this waterfall. John volunteered to take one for the team and swam ashore. We all passed him our bags and he topped them up whilst getting totally soaked. The cold climate ensures that the water supply is always pure in East Greenland. Some supplies contain gritty deposits but if the water is fast flowing this is not so much of a problem.<br />
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After putting John back in his boat by way of a wet entry we rounded the headland and paddled North East straight into a headwind. At the top end of Jerne Sund there is a very small gap which separates the little island of Annlinarteq from the mainland.<br />
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Once through this small gap you arrive in Jerne Bugt. This is a sheltered Fjord with glaciers and mountains to the North and West. There is a sandy beach just past the gap on the East side of Annlinarteq. This is a prefect place to have lunch and gave us a chance to stretch our legs. The water is crystal clear.<br />
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After lunch we headed North East once more towards the next small gap at Smalsund. Once through Smalsund the island of Gruse (Aputiteq) appears in the distance. This was our next campsite. This island is mentioned in Freddie Spencer Chapmans book ' Watkins Last Expedition' and in 1932 apparently had its own ice cap. Today there is very little ice to be seen. The crossing to Gruse is less than one thumb (5nm) and takes under an hour. The landing beach is on the East side and is marked by a hut that is positioned on a headland.<br />
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The hut is very difficult to spot as you cross from Smalsund but soon appears above you as you traverse the shore of Gruse. The beach is sandy at low tide but there are only rocks when the tide is high. The kayaks have to be lifted well clear of the sand and secured with a rope. This is because to the West is an ice berg grave yard and at least three glaciers. The ice bergs and glaciers calve all the time so it is like camping near to a battlefield. The ice bergs crack and the glaciers boom but you rarely see the ice falling because of the time it takes for the sound to travel across the fjord. This is truly an amazing place to a camp although the terrain does resemble the moon.<br />
Once again we set up camp leaving the fly sheets off and and had a snooze.<br />
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The average age of our team was fifty eight. None of us had signed up for a mile munching mission and we knew that to succeed and get to our objective we needed to take it steady and keep ourselves safe by not pushing the boundaries. With this in mind we were determined to stay relaxed.<br />
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We visited the hut and read the notes of previous trips which are inscribed on the wall. We resolved to write our names up on the way back but only if we got to Lake Fjord. Much to our annoyance a family had visited recently and wrote their names. No problem with this but after eight years Martins pen was missing.<br />
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The temperature dropped after the sun went behind the mountains and we manged to light a campfire with some drift wood. We agreed on a rota and stood bear watch for the first time which meant I slept late.<br />
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<b>Friday 29 July</b><br />
Today was going to be a short paddle of about three thumbs or three hours. The first hour would take us to the twin islands shown on the map as Qavtunaq and Fladoerne. The next landmark after the islands is the headland at Kangikajik approximately one thumb away. The final leg is an open crossing to Depot Island one thumb to the North East.<br />
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My lie in was not a problem as we were due to leave at around ten am. After breakfast we moved the boats closer to the water and loaded them on the beach. I hate being the last to launch. I am a notorious faffer and my son often issues the rebuke 'faff like this in Greenland and you going to really p**s people off'.<br />
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There was the usual Greenland fog at high level and there was a noticeable drop in the temperature. I have learnt my lesson from the 2014 trip and wore my dri suit and thermal base layer. The icebergs were constantly calving and there were some very large ones which were quite close. These produced a few waves which was a little unnerving.<br />
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We had a slight tail wind and we were soon passing between the two islands noting beaches and possible landing sites as we went. There were some huge ice bergs just after Qavtunaq a couple were as big as skyscrapers and one was rocking to and fro and was obviously about to flip. The crossing to the headland was not particularly quick due to the number of photographs being taken. At the headland we took a short rest and a coffee break. I have two large neck flasks, Whilst cooking breakfast I put soup in one and coffee in the other so that I can have a hot drink on the water if we cannot land for lunch.<br />
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The crossing to Depot Island was straight forward (not like last time ) and just before landing we managed a little rock hopping between two small islands. At high water there is no beach at Depot Island but today there was a small tide and we arrived shortly after the tide had turned. We unloaded the boats and had a late lunch on the beach.<br />
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The campsite is a bit of a scramble off the beach so it was a something of an effort to carry up all the kit. The island has been well used in the past. The place was littered with various items of rubbish including sled dog ties which had been chewed through. We assumed that the locals must use this site in the winter months when out dog sledding. There are the remains of a turf a house which I had photographed when I visited in 2014. Depot Island was the furthest north I managed to get before the rescue boat came and took me back to Tasiilaq. I had a few Ghosts to lay was very happy to have got back here feeling as good as I did.<br />
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The boats were moved into a gulley well clear of the beach and after our evening meal John and Geoff went off for to explore. Close to the campsite there are some burial sites, small standing stones and stone caches which is where the island presumably gets its name.<br />
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<b>Saturday 30 July</b><br />
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The expedition routine sounds boring when it is written down. Get up, pack up, breakfast, move boats, load boats and launch. However, the routine is far from boring when you are in a place like East Greenland. The views are always spectacular and are changing constantly. There are mountains, glaciers and Fjords. We are always looking to see what the weather is doing, watching the clouds, the wind on the water and any thing that may help us to make sense of what is happening around us. There is also constant banter between each of us which keeps your mind alert for a suitable response or riposte. When paddling it is quite easy to end up out of ear shot from the others so on a long day you sometimes become engrossed in your own thought while you paddle. An ipod or something similar helps.<br />
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Today there was a lot of Greenland fog around. It lingers between the mountains and in the fjords. We call this The Dragons Breath back in Wales. We had breakfast gathered around a large rock and launched off the sandy beach as the tide was still on its way in. The first part of the paddle was due north further into Depot Fjord and along the east shore of Depot Island. After a short while we turned east into a small channel between Depot island and the main land noted on the map as Depot sund (Ananap ikasa). There were some large ice bergs in the channel some of which were active and calving as we passed. We kept well clear of these and were soon in a maze of small islands. The fog closed in as we paddled close to ice bergs so large that the tops disappeared upwards into the fog. To the left of us the cliff tops also disappeared into the fog. Navigation was quite difficult so we resorted to using the GPS to keep track of our progress. A compass does not work very well here and the GPS gave us a degree of confidence. Martin had been here a few times before so that helped as well. We rounded a headland and passed to the east of an island (Nipinerit) and across a small bay to another headland Kap Nordenskiold.<br />
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We were heading for the east side of the island of Store. This island is mentioned many times in Freddie Spencer Chapmans book but it is referred to as Sartermie. The paddle from Kap Nordenskiold to the hut at the north end of Store is at least two thumbs (two hours) and we needed to cross the channel between the mainland and Store. The trouble was that we could only just see the cliffs to the west of us and we could see nothing of Store. Using the GPS we crossed over to the bit of land marked Nugartineq and just to north east of an anchorage shown on the map. Whilst we were crossing we heard an iceberg calving just behind us. The noise went on for at least five minutes and we assumed that one of the huge ice bergs that we had just passed had in fact rolled. We were disappointed because due to the fog we saw absolutely nothing.<br />
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We paddled around a small headland and picked up a light tail wind. This wind was enough to clear some of the fog from sea level and slowly the mountains came into view. It seemed that the further north we went the better the views just got better.<br />
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A small sandy beach on the west side of Store was an ideal place to stop for lunch. This one had the benefit of a stream at the southern end where we could top up our water bottles and bags. There was no water at the Depot Island campsite.<br />
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After lunch we once again headed north and eventually came to the two huts at Satermit where we landed intending to make camp. The landing is in a rocky gulley and it was not easy to get the loaded boats out of the water. We tied off the boats and left them floating and went to have a look around the huts. The site is well used by local hunters and was in a bit of a mess. The second hut did not have a door and the sleeping bench had been dismantled. With the amount of litter and debris lying around this was not going to be a very comfortable place to stay.<br />
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After a team meeting in the main hut we decided to head further along the coast and explore the area around Eskimo Island to the east of Store. We arrived at the channel between Eskimo Island and Store and paddled in to a large bay Imartineq. There were some impressive ice bergs here but nowhere to land let alone camp. The time was now approaching eight o'clock and we had been on the water since nine that morning. We were near to the mouth of Kangerdlugsuatsiak. To the north we could see a large headland the other side of which was Hell Corner. To the east there was nothing but The Denmark Strait so this was not a place to hang around at this time of night and we needed a campsite.<br />
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We decided to head back to the two huts. After about an hour we spotted a small beach with a reef to right hand side of its entrance . We landed and after a brief explore we found a nice campsite just off the beach up some loose rocks to the right. This campsite is marked Saningivajik on the map.<br />
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We made camp and had our evening meal on the beach. Martin managed to get a weather forecast for the next few days. The next day it was due to be a little windy but after that the forecast was for light winds. We decided to have a rest day and head across Kangerdlugsuatsiak the day after.<br />
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<b>Sunday 31 July</b><br />
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There was low cloud this morning which somewhat spoilt the fantastic views today. We were camped in a small valley a little above sea level. To the south of us the cliffs rose steeply which meant we were in shadow until the sun rose high enough to clear them. To the north the ground went up gently to form a gnoll. The normally wet mossy ground was completely bone dry due to the lack of rainfall recently. In normal conditions this would be quite a damp spot.<br />
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After chilling in the tent, reading and listening to music, I went for a walk up to the top of the gnoll. The view was stunning, probably the best view that I have ever seen. Kangerdlugsuatsiak is about two thumbs (10 nm ) across. On the far side to the north were four well defined hanging valleys each with its own glacier. To the east the fjord gives way to the open sea where the swell picks up. In the opposite direction to the east there is a junction of four fjords. Straight across is Nordfjord where FSC and co. put in to repair their motor boat the Stella. Next to that is the main fjord which leads to the Glacier de France. The other two fjords are Vestfjord and Odesund which is the channel between Store and the mainland.<br />
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I had another go at fishing, this time spinning off the rocks. Despite moving to various locations to all the seaward sides of the gnoll I did not get so much as a nibble. Other ways of passing the time included taking pictures of the food pouches for our kind sponsors. Geoff the team photographer was kind enough to give me some tips which I think improved the standard of my pictures. John felt restless so he paddled back to the huts at Satermit to get some firewood. We kept in touch by radio just in case he encountered an ice bear. The locals do not know them as Polar Bears. In any case the sun had gone behind the cliffs and we had a big day ahead of us so we went to bed early. It was not getting dark at all so as Gino Watkins once apparently said 'the hands on the clock were meaningless'.<br />
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<b>Monday 01 August</b><br />
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We awoke early to a lovely morning. The cloud had all gone and it was a beautiful bluebird day.<br />
Our routine was the same as normal and after breakfast on the beach we packed the boats and headed diagonally across Kangerdlugsuatsiak Fjord. Under the hanging valley furthest to the right (east) there is a beach where it is possible to land and have a break before assessing the situation and making the final decision to head off towards Hell Corner. The crossing took just under two hours and the past surprisingly quickly which was probably due the views of the coast and icebergs. About half way across a whale past just behind us. Using mu new knowledge from the Whale Museum in Reykjavik i reckoned it was a Hump Back Whale. I made a rather poor attempt to video it.<br />
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The beach is in a small cove sheltered from the open sea by a low headland. At the rear of the beach the cliffs rise sheer and the steep slopes are covered with scree. The tide nearly covers the sand at high water making this more of an emergency or lunch type beach. some of the loose rock looks rather precarious.<br />
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We had a quick coffee break and refilled our water bottles from a noisy stream that was cascading out from under a large block of ice. This stream was probably fed from a glacier in the hanging valley above us.<br />
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Once back on the water we hand railed the cliffs and made our way to the mouth of the fjord. A few kilometres on there is a large bay which marked the transition between the Fjord and the open sea. We had a quick conference to make sure that everyone was happy to proceed. From this point there was at least a five hour paddle in front of us with nowhere to land. It was important to make sure that we were all comfortable. The decision was unanimous and we set off once more.<br />
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There was a small chop and a gentle tail wind. Conditions were as perfect as we could have expected. We kept fairly close to the cliffs which meant that sometimes we took the inside line when passing an ice berg and sometimes we went around it. As usual the ice bergs were calving and the sound of breaking ice kept us on our toes.<br />
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After a couple of hours Hell Corner (Qagitsivigtaqartarajik) came in to view. The headland is quite distinctive and it has what appears to be a small triangular cave at sea level. There is a reef which heads out to sea from the base of the cliff directly off the point. The water was kicking up even on a calm day such as this which is probably due to a number of currents meeting at the headland.<br />
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We rafted up just before Hell Corner and carried out an assessment. John produced his large bag of sweets and we were all feeling quite excited. We had read about this place but I had only ever seen one photograph taken by Paul Caffin on his visit to Lake Fjord. In any event the paddle past the headland although choppy was fairly uneventful.<br />
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From Hell Corner it is just over a kilometre to Kap Japetus Steenstrup ( Nigertulup orqngmut nua ) and the entrance to Nigertulik Fjord. FSC refers to this fjord as Nigertusok. According to FSC the fjord gets is name from the strong north easterly winds that blow down the fjord from the glaciers which we could see to the north west as we paddled across. The entrance is nearly a thumb wide and it took us a little under an hour to get to the other side. There was a bit more chop here so taking pictures as we crossed was little tricky. Once across we cut inside a group of islands and looked for somewhere to have lunch. There was a sheltered bay behind the biggest island but there was nowhere to land even though Martin and John had a good look around. We rafted up once more and had lunch afloat.<br />
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After lunch we paddled along the coast and cut inside the next island through a small channel. As we emerged from this channel we could see a large island sitting at the mouth of the next fjord. This island was named Ailsa by the BAARE Expedition due to its resemblance to Ailsa Craig an island just off the coast of Scotland to the west of Girvan in the Forth of Clyde. Ailsa was easily recognisable and this confirmed that we were now at the entrance to Lake Fjord.<br />
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FSC describes the fjord on page 38 of his book. It seems a bit pointless to write about the same place and merely change the words so I take the opportunity to quote him here:<br />
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<i>'Lake Fjord is a small Y shaped fjord, the extremities of which are only 3 or 4 miles from the open coast. A high conical island of rock, reminiscent of Ailsa Craig , after which we named it , guards the mouth of the fjord, which is rather more than a mile in width. The steep - sided north branch of the fjord terminates in a glacier wall nearly 100 feet in height, running the whole width of the fjord. This glacier, longitudinally streaked with lines of moraine debris, is fed by many tributary glaciers winding round the feet of lesser mountain ranges visible in the background. On the north side of this fjord is a narrow hanging glacier of extreme steepness.</i><br />
<i> The southern branch of the fjord leads through less rugged mountains to a wide fertile valley containing the lake, bringing down so much mud that ships must anchor long before they reach the end of the fjord'</i><br />
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We encountered a head wind as we entered the fjord and this created a small chop on the water and this gave the impression that the tide was flowing out of the fjord. To the left the cliffs towered above us and blocked out the sun creating a large area of shadow which was quite cold. The rest of the team chose to paddle further out in the main channel in the sunshine where they could get a better view of the glacier in the right hand branch. I took the colder route close to the cliffs out of the flow. Slowly Aisla drifted behind us and the features of the coastline at the branch junction took shape. I kept focusing on this point because this is where the memorial cross to Gino Watkins is marked on the map. Not far from this point we regrouped and eventually the cross came into view above us. We had decided to land here on the way in and visit the cross first. This would give us the option of leaving in a hurry if the weather forecast took a turn for the worst. With a seven hour paddle behind us we were feeling rather exposed.<br />
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The landing to view the cross is not an easy one. Just off to the left (west) there is a small ledge which forms a bit of a quay. The state of the tide was perfect and there was only a small swell. John landed first and assisted us each in turn. Even so, for us old folk it proved to be a bit of an effort but no one got unduly wet. We tied off the boats and cast them adrift connected by a tow rope secured to a rock. From here it was a small sometimes vertical scramble up to the site of the cross.<br />
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The view from the cross is quite spectacular and it was easy to why this spot was chosen. Ailsa is clearly visible as its it splits the entrance to Lake Fjord in two.<br />
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We each had our photographs taken and congratulated one another on getting here at last. We had all wanted to make this trip for a long time and this was my second attempt. Our team had an average age of fifty eight. Martin reckoned that only fourteen paddlers have ever paddled in and out again (excluding locals of course) and Donna is the only women to have achieved this so far. By the way apparently I may be the oldest to have done it.<br />
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I had mixed emotions, on the one hand I was feeling as if I had climbed a mountain and was standing on the summit but this was tinged with the fact that we would not be here if Gino Watkins had not died in such tragic circumstances. In any event it was not hard to have a sense of closeness to the characters brought to life by the books we had read.<br />
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Time was getting on, we had been paddling for over eight hours and we needed to get to the campsite which was half a thumb up the left (west) branch of the fjord. We retraced our steps back to the boats and successfully got afloat without any mishaps. As we paddled further in to the fjord we past many grounded ice bergs blown here by the wind. We had fun making Disney shapes from them. I clearly saw rabbits, chickens, Shrek and many others.<br />
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We landed by a scree slope with lots of debris flowing into the fjord from the glacier above. Further round to the left a river flowed into the sea from The Lake. As stated by FSC the tide goes out a long way here and we were fortunate to land near to high water. After securing the kayaks we quickly found the site of the old hut and set up camp nearby.<br />
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We explored the hut and the surrounding area. It was possible to make out the remains of the old water supply and a fish smoker. We examined what remained of the hut and found some smaller items such as sardine tins, marmite jars and other various bits n bobs. There were cables tied to rocks presumably to tie the hut down in windy conditions. Local hunters visit the fjord but they appear to camp away from the site where it is easier to land at low tide. The base camp site is surrounded by a lot of wild flowers and there are quite a few birds flying about. There is also the constant sound of running water flowing through the glacier debris near the shore. At the base of this debris Donna and John discovered the remains of an old boat. We retrieved the keel and excavated sand and rocks to reveal one side of the boat. It was about 5 metres long and quite sturdily built. Donna had a copy of FSC's book which had photographs in it. On one of the pages was a photograph of John Rymill sailing the whaler which the expedition used for fishing and general ferrying of equipment. The boat that we discovered was clearly the same boat. FSC had written that this boat had been towed out of Lake Fjord at the end of the expedition but this does not seem to be the case. We took photographs of the boat and put what we had excavated in a safe place above high water.<br />
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Everyone seemed a little subdued possibly due to the days paddle or maybe due to the atmosphere of the campsite. We sat around a camp fire as the sun went down and I spoke a passage from FSC's book which was read when the original cross was erected.<br />
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<i>Fear no more the heat of the sun</i><br />
<i>Nor the furious winter rages</i><br />
<i>Thou thy worldly task hast done</i><br />
<i>Home art gone and ta'en thy wages</i><br />
<i>Golden lads and girls all must</i><br />
<i>Like chimney sweepers, come to dust.</i><br />
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<b>Tuesday 02 August - Hell Corner Return</b><br />
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It was a beautiful sunny day again, but I could tell Martin was feeling edgy. It is a big responsibility to lead a trip and take the rest of us to a place as exposed as this. There was no feeling of exposure at the base camp. The weather was good, the views were stunning and there was plenty to do and see. I wanted to stay one more day but in the back of our minds there was always Hell Corner and how difficult it would become if the weather changed. The decision was made to leave at 3pm that afternoon to take advantage of the high tide.<br />
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Before we left there were a couple of things that we wanted to do. Donna and John trekked up to The Lake to get some photographs. I went for an explore around the locals campsite. On page 89 of FSC's book he refers to having breakfast with some of the crew of The<i> Maegen</i> a Danish Naval ship that was used for fishery protection on the West Coast of Greenland. This ship had given FSC and Quinten Riley a lift from Angmassalik to Lake Fjord.<br />
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<i>'When Commander Reis and Lieutenant Hoppe came to breakfast with us in the hut next morning, the former told us that he had a man on board who had once been a stone-cutter and that if we agreed he would get him to carve Watkins' name and the date of his death on a large lump of granite just behind the base.'</i><br />
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This is the only reference that we have read which relates to this carving and none of us had ever seen a photograph. Martin had been to Lake Fjord twice before and despite looking for the carving he had not found it. We went back to the book and started again. 'Behind the hut' we assumed this meant within say fifty metres. By holding a burial service the remaining expedition members confirmed their Christian faith so the carving would probably face east. The 'large lump of granite' would need a flat section big enough to fit the lettering on it. I located a suitable section of rock on a low granite ridge behind the hut and we carried out a finger tip search. By this time Donna and John had returned from The Lake and almost at once Donna spotted an ornamental cross. We then found Gino's name and the date of his death exactly as stated in the book.<br />
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The inscription was difficult to read and did not show up in photographs so we coloured in the letters and numbers with a lump of coal from the left over supply at the hut. The carving then became clearly visible. I placed a sprig of Niviarsiag (Chamerian latifolium or dwarf fireweed/River Beauty) the national flower of Greenland below the writing and we each had a photograph taken in memory of our visit. The rain will by now have washed the coal away and Gino's name will be hidden once more.<br />
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We launched on time at 3pm and headed away down the fjord. As I passed the trapped ice bergs I once again made disney shapes. There was a head wind from base camp to the branch fjord. We kept close to the south shore in the shadow created by the large cliffs. Ailsa soon appeared dominating the view to the north and dividing the fjord in two. We found the small gap inside the first island and rounded the headland into the large bay north of Nigertusok. By this time we had been paddling for about an hour and a half so we rafted up and had a coffee break prior to the crossing of Nigertusok Fjord. After crossing the mouth of the fjord we retraced our route back to Cap Steenstrap. The sea became messy and bouncy as we approached Hell Corner. There was no pattern to the waves and we were under high cliffs constantly in shadow so it was quite chilly. The next couple of hours were not particularly interesting, we did not speak much and as a group we were quite spread out. Eventually the sun came into view shining off ice bergs out to sea. The view south to Eskimo island and Store, with all the different light patterns, was just beautiful. We rounded a headland and entered the mouth of Kangerdlugsuatsiak Fjord by the large bay. We landed on coffee break beach just after 8.30pm feeling a bit tired after the five and half hour paddle but quite elated that we had done it and got out without incident.<br />
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We had coffee and some food and launched onto a flat calm sea. The sun was starting to go behind the mountains and we had a beautiful sunset paddle passing each of the hanging valleys. We landed at 10.30 on a small beach at Ingmikerterajik and inside some huge ice bergs which were just a few hundred metres off the beach. <br />
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The boats were unloaded, moved above high water and secured with a tow line. The campsite was strewn with rocks interspersed with plenty of dry moss and covered in Niviarsiag. We set up camp and then spent time chatting and drinking hot chocolate. We were all feeling good and did not set the trip wires until after 1.30 am. It was still not dark and I was feeling apprehensive - this seemed like a good place for bears.<br />
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<b>Wednesday 03 August - Rest day</b><br />
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It was a rest day but I was still up early. There was not a cloud in the sky and the views with the big ice bergs so close were once again stunning. A few hundred metres away to the west was a large stream flowing down the mountainside from a large glacier. This was a great place for a good wash down and a chance to rinse some salt out of our kit. We spent the time taking photographs, charging our batteries on the solar chargers and chilling on the beach. I watched a large group of Greenland seals swimming around the ice bergs. They then moved off along the coast and appeared to be shepherding fish to trap the against the shore. Greenland seals are quite peculiar to watch. They swim with their heads up and in groups presumably for safety.<br />
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We cooked dinner on the beach and then the temperature dropped. Mist came in and a large ice berg exploded just off the beach creating a small tsunami which luckily did not reach the boats.<br />
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<b>Thursday 04 August - Return to Depot Island</b><br />
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Up early once again and launched just after 9am. We paddled through the large ice bergs but did not hang around too long. One had calved during breakfast about half a mile away and this was not a safe place to paddle, but we did get some good photographs and some video. It did not take too long for us to get out into Kangerdlugsuatsiak Fjord and we headed towards our previous campsite. From here we turned west passed the huts at Sartimit and landed on a small sandy beach for a bar and wee stop.<br />
Once around the north end of Store we paddled into Odesund the small channel between Store and the mainland. The water was flat calm at first but a headwind soon picked up slowing our progress. By lunchtime we were at the main sandy beach halfway down Store where we had food and topped up our water bags. The headwind picked up again for our crossing over to the mainland where we paddled in the shadow of large cliffs in a choppy sea. There were some large ice bergs grounded at the base of the cliffs and we paddled once again inside some and outside others. The sea became even more messy and the waves were bigger than we had experienced at Hell Corner. We rounded a large headland, Kap Nordenskiold, and turned south west into a channel inside the island of Nipinerit. There are a lot of islands here, FSC describes them as a maize so you have to keep your wits about you. After Nipinerit we turned into another small channel Depotsund and headed northwest around the north end of Depot Island.On the shore there are the remains of a turf house and a wooden marker post. We had a good look around for a place to land but there was not a suitable spot so we continued to the main campsite at the south west corner of Depot Island and landed at just after 3.30 pm.<br />
It was high water so we had to quickly unload the boats and move them into the gulley. It was then back into the normal routine of set up camp, brew and snooze. I was starting to switch from expedition mode into holiday mode and could feel the pressure coming off. Depot Island is a noisy campsite, the waves boom into the gulley at high tide. It was now getting cold after 6pm, the trip wires appeared to be working well so we decided to cook at the tent. After dinner Geoff and myself went for a walk up the hill. Here we found plenty of burial sites but no bones. There were also a number of stones jammed vertical into the rock. We could not fathom what these were for and assumed they were some form of navigation aid.<br />
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<b>Friday 05 August</b><br />
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Short paddle day today back to Gruse. Launched at 10.15 and had a leisurely paddle across Depot Fjord to the headland at Kangikajik. On page 228 of his book FSC refers to three islands, Ananah, Katunah and Aputatik. We know that Aputatik is Aputiteq or Gruse. I am of the opinion that Ananah is Depot Island. FSC Says that the sea is <i>vilely rough </i>as<i> </i>they paddle in behind Ananah and there are old winter houses on the sheltered side of the island. The map refers to Depot sound as Ananap ikasa and Depot Fjord as Ananap kangeriva orqorteq. So Depot could easily equate to Ananap or Ananah. Of course this pure speculation especially as FSC does specifically mention survey work being carried out in Depot Fjord.<br />
The other island Katunah is mentioned a few times as a stop over on the various journeys between Lake Fjord and Angmassalik but it is not shown on the map. One of the two islands at Fladeerne is named Qavtunaq and we surmised that this could in fact be Katunah. These islands were the next way point after Kangikajik and we decided to have an explore as we passed. The distance from Kangikajik to Qavtunaq is less than one thumb and we arrived at the islands in under an hour. We circumnavigated the easterly island which is the taller of the two. There was only one viable landing spot overlooking the sound between the two islands and we stopped for elevenses. We believe it is the westerly island that is Katunah. This island is low by comparison to its sister and it is possible to see the remains of winter houses and walls from the sea. We did not land and continued on towards Gruse.<br />
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We landed on the sandy beach and quickly unloaded the boats and set up camp. After lunch comprising flat bread and Brie we held a team meeting to decide where we were going to go next. All of us were keen to get up close to a glacier. We could go directly across to the Apusineq Glacier on the other side of the fjord from the camp. The glacier calves into the sea in a number of places and there seemed to be one spot where we could land and hike up the mountain alongside the glacier. The other option was to head north from Sermilgaq and visit the Karale Glacier. We decided on the second option. The Apusineq Glacier was very active and could prove to be a hazard and the Karale Glacier is massive by comparison.<br />
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Some of us went for a walk up on to the ridge behind the campsite. From the top of the ridge we could retrace our paddle all the way back around Hell Corner and on to Ailsa at the entrance to Lake fjord. There was a glacier pool where we went for a skinny dip. The first bath for nearly two weeks.<br />
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The terrain was a boulder field with some large rocks and patches of grit and dust much like I would imagine the Moon to look like. FSC says this island has its own permanent Ice Cap, but there is very little ice left today.<br />
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That evening we lit a camp fire and had a brew whilst Donna read passages from the book. We were travelling the same route that the BAARE members used many times on their trips to and from Lake Fjord. The glacier was especially noisy this evening and it sounded once again like we were sleeping close to a battlefield.<br />
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<b>Saturday 06 August</b><br />
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Yet another<b> </b>sunny morning. We packed up early, had breakfast on the beach and launched just after nine. The ice bergs were very active today and minutes after we launched a set of very big waves arrived and went right up the beach and past where the kayaks had been tied off. This had a been a lucky escape for us.<br />
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Gruse was soon left behind us and we retraced our route through the gaps in the islands. There was a lot of brash ice here which makes a hideous noise as it bumps along the kayak. I felt quite guilty as I thought of Martins gel coat.<br />
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After lunch on the picturesque sandy beach we paddled through the small gap on the East side of Annlinarteq and on towards the next headland. As we rounded the headland the wind picked up to force four/five directly into our faces. We struggled to make headway and eddy hopped along the north side of the fjord trying to keep out of the wind. At one point I thought that we may have to run into a fjord to the north of us and find a campsite in unexplored territory.<br />
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However, we managed to find shelter behind two islands on the other side of the Fjord and eventually made it safely to The Slabs campsite. at around 3.30 pm.<br />
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We unpacked, set up camp and had dinner sitting in a pit amongst the rocks out of the wind. It is starting to get very cold when the sun goes down so we went to bed early after first setting the trip wires. There is still daylight twenty four hours a day which is easy to get used to. Time seems to just drift on by. Gino is reputed to have said 'what does it matter what the hands of the clock say' and I now understand what he meant by that comment. We did not need an alarm, Geoff is an early riser and went around waking us each in turn.<br />
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<b>Sunday 07 August</b><br />
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Up early and breakfast on The Slabs. It was yet another stunning day with not a cloud in the sky. There was a very relaxed holiday atmosphere around the camp and we were all well into our expedition routine. We wanted to catch the supermarket so we launched at nine and headed off south towards Sermiligaq. There was a large flat iceberg in the middle of the fjord so we stopped for team photographs and arrived at Sermiligaq around ten thirty. The Pilersuisoq did not open until eleven and there was a queue of curious locals waiting outside alongside us. I had been living on expedition meals for ten days and it was nice to stock up on lots of goodies such as chocolate Swiss rolls, honey, biscuits and the ever faithful Coffeemate.<br />
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We left Sermilgaq and paddled north into the next bay at Kungermit. There is a replica hut here which has been built as part of a schools education project.The way to the hut was guarded by a pack of sled dogs. The leader of the pack was sunning himself on a rock and did not seem phased by our presence. Inside the hut there is a sleeping bench and various bits and pieces such as cooking implements and children's toys. There was not a lot of light in the house, the window was boarded up and to be honest it was not very inviting. I would not have wished to sleep there but we did get a good feel of what life for the old Inuit must have been like.<br />
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Our campsite for the evening was to be at Nunartivaq some three thumbs to the northeast across Sermiligaq Fjord. We paddled in a direct line out into the middle of the fjord. The wind was light and the sea flat calm so I decided once more to try my luck at fishing. I let all of the line out off my hand line which took the lures down to a depth of 50 M. However, I came to the conclusion after some two hours that there are no fish in this part of Greenland.<br />
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We land on a lovely sandy beach previously named Surf Beach. This is because the beach faces due east and the fetch comes directly off the The Denmark Strait. At the back of the beach is a low rocky ridge upon which it is possible to pitch half a dozen tents. Behind this ridge is a sheltered low flat area where any number of tents could be pitched if the weather was inclement. A wide bubbling stream feeds out of the glacier valley beyond the campsite. The islands and the area surrounding the stream are covered in Niviarsiag. Near to the beach a large rock pool gave us the chance to have a swim and rinse off our dri suits in fresh water. The weather was fine so we all camped up on the ridge which meant that we had an amazing view, out over the fjord and beyond, straight out of the tent doorway.<br />
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Our evening meal was cooked near the tents where a low rock step provided a comfortable seat with a view. I went to sleep listening to the sound of the waves breaking on the sandy beach.<br />
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<b>Monday 08 August</b><br />
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Slept well up early and after breakfast on the rocks we launched just before ten into small dumping waves. We handrailed the coast north and rounded the point at Nugartik. After an hour we pulled up a beach for an early lunch. across the fjord to the north east we could see The Rasmussen Glacier which was over four thumbs away and looked enormous. To the right of this was a range of peaks interspersed with many hanging glaciers. Around to our left and still out of sight was our goal The Karale Glacier. The map shows the Glacier to be about one thumb form here. In reality it has retreated many miles since the map was drawn and was in fact still over two hours paddling away.<br />
After our break we paddled off the beach and almost immediately rounded a small headland and the the Glacier was in full view. We could see it clearly but it was over ten miles way and did not seem to change as we paddled towards it. To our north was a smaller glacier which was constantly calving and kept us entertained on our journey. I picked out lumps of ice, lined them up and used them as targets to reassure myself that I was actually making progress down the fjord. The scale of the landscape in Greenland is impossible to get used to. The mountains do not look much larger than the ones in say Scotland until you realise how far away they actually are.<br />
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Eventually, we landed on a sandy beach among large blocks of ice and glacier debris. Three of us walked up to the face of the glacier to have a photo shoot wearing our kayak gear.<br />
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I had not realised how messy a glacier and the surrounding area was. It was like walking through a quarry back home. The rock was ground totally smooth and covering this was a thin layer of dust and small rocks. This was a lethal combination for walking and I took a heavy tumble after which I walked with much more caution. The glacier itself towered above us.<br />
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There were many caves and fissures in the face but it was very peaceful by comparison to other glaciers we had seen on the trip so far.<br />
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We set up camp some distance from the glacier. The terrain was rock and dust very much like the campsite at Gruse.<br />
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The temperature had dropped considerably and there was a constant chilling breeze coming off the glacier. It was like living in a fridge.<br />
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After dinner we sat on a high rock looking at the views and chatting about such things as global warming. It was cold in the tent that night and I suspect we were all wearing a couple of extra layers of clothing.<br />
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<b>Tuesday 09 August</b><br />
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Lazy start due to short paddle day back to surf beach. The dust and sand was becoming a right pain. It gets everywhere including inside the tent and covers everything in a white dust. Two of us went for a short walk up to the face of the glacier. As mentioned the terrain was lethal to walk on so we took I time. We stopped a safe distance away form the face but close enough for us to study it. The ice was not white at all and looked very unstable. There were pillars and caves and large lumps of ice which looked like they were ready to fall into the sea at any time. At the margin the ice was mixed with stones and dust in a very uninviting frozen mixture which we were actually standing on whilst we made our study and took photographs. The 'tide' line was clearly visible around the valley side showing how much the glacier had receded in recent years.<br />
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Once back at camp we had a quick brew and launched around eleven thirty. The trip back to surf beach went very quickly and we landed at 3 pm. Over towards the south side of the beach a pile of kit had been offloaded whilst we were way. A short time later a large group of over fifteen walkers turned up and set up camp, including a massive tent, high up on the rocks. The feeling of being alone in the wilderness had now gone and for the first time in nearly three weeks I got to thinking that it would soon be time to head home.<br />
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<b>Wed 10 August</b><br />
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Feeling tired today, I did not sleep well last night because I kept sliding down the mattress due to the tent being pitched on a bit of a slope. This is one disadvantage of a Synmat.<br />
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We had another lazy start and launched around 10.30. We soon overtook the walkers who shouted a cheery hello as we passed far below them. I did not envy them at all if I was honest. There are no trails in the wilds of Greenland and they were scrambling along the side of a hill. Martin met a couple of them later in Kummuit and they remarked that they envied us <i>gliding along</i>.<br />
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Our route was south west into a fjord called Ikateq and on to the Bluie 2 Airbase. I had visited the Airbase three years ago but it was still well worth another visit as we were passing. We had arrived from the south last time and this time we were coming in from the north. Our lunch stop was at the harbour that had been built by the Americans to service the base. The crane used to off load the ships was still there parked near to the quay. It looked quite impressive so I had a sit in the drivers seat. The controls were all rusty but you still had the feeling of what it must have been like to drive it.<br />
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I wanted to get one of my friends a souvenir from one of the vehicles, he likes old tractors and such like so I thought he might appreciate a wheel nut.<br />
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We had a walk around and took some photographs. The runway showed signs that a plane had recently landed. There is mounting pressure to have the Americans clean up the area and a check on the internet revealed that a high powered delegation had recently visited, presumably to have a look at how much work is required. I have mixed feelings on this. On the one hand the airbase is a piece of history literally frozen in time attracting visitors but it really is a mess that should be sorted.<br />
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With Geoffs' help I manged to get my wheel nut plus a rusty window catch.<br />
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We continued our journey to a large junction on the west side of the island of Qianarteq. Here we turned north west into a fjord called Tuno. This fjord leads to a narrow stretch of water which eventually leads to the settlement of Kungmitt. The narrows are tidal and high water is needed to ensure sufficient water to float a kayak. This is only possible because the Americans blasted a way through to provide a shorter more sheltered route form the Airbase to the Kungmitt.<br />
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We camped on a flat windy area just short of the crucial point. I tried my luck at fishing but had no luck as usual. This area is well used compared to other camp sites which reminded us that we were getting closer to civilisation. There was plenty of drift wood lying around so we had a campfire.<br />
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I was camped closest to the water and during the night I was woken by the sound of something large paddling through the shallows close to the tent. Instantly knowing what was making the noise I attempted to make a quick exit from the tent to warn Martin who I knew had the gun. First I had to get out of the sleeping bag, this proved to impossible due to my panic state. Eventually, I managed to extricate myself from both the sleeping bag and the tent. By this time the bear was long gone presumably spooked by the still burning fire. I woke Martin who surprisingly believed all my babbling words. He conducted a sweep of the surrounding area but found no sign of the bear. I was trying to convince myself that I was not dreaming but I know what I heard and it was definitely a bear. The locals call these bears 'Ghost' bears. You never see them but that does not mean they are not there. After this a bear watch rota seems suddenly more like a good idea especially as we were only a short paddle from quite a large settlement.<br />
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<b>Thur 11 August</b><br />
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Last day paddling, Kungmuitt was only a couple of hours away. There was no rush to leave, it was going to be short day on the water and we had to arrive at the narrows at high water. The weather was chilly but very calm. There were some spectacular reflections on the water and the only sound was a distant water fall and some noisy Eider ducks flying past the campsite.<br />
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We arrived at the narrows shortly before high water and sat on some rocks to pass the time. After a bit of wading, pushing and shoving we managed to get through and into the deeper waters on the other side. We were still in no rush and the suggestion came up to try one last chance at fishing. My success rate on fishing was pretty poor but Donna said that she had seen fish at this exact spot. We rafted up and I let most of the hand line out until it touched the bottom. I then pulled it up a couple of metres and we sat there chatting while I was jigging.<br />
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Rassmussen tells a story in his book ' Greenland by The Polar Sea. The tale is about Nerrivik who is the Goddess or Mother of the Sea. She is known by many names such as Sedna (Inukittut) or Arnakuagsak in Greenland and Sassuma Arnaa in West Greenland. Nerrivik is an orphan girl who lives with a large family. One day it is time for the family to move on so all the equipment is packed into their Umiak and they put to sea. Unfortunately, Nerrivik is left behind on the beach. She shouts to the family but they ignore her cries so she jumps into the sea and swims after them. When she reaches the boat she clambers on to the gunwhales but one of them cuts off all her fingers and she sinks into the sea and drowns. Her fingers become the whales and seals of the sea and she lives in a house with no roof on the sea bed.<br />
When she is displeased the hunting is poor and the weather is bad. The Shaman then has to go into a trance and swim down to comb the lie out of her hair and convince her that the people up top are not that bad. If he succeeds the hunting and weather will improve.<br />
I often talk to the Mother of the Sea when I am in a sticky situation such as a large tide race or noisy cave and she usually stops my disco leg from shaking and all is well.<br />
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Today, I had a little chat with her and she was in a good mood because after about five minutes I caught a really nice Cod which I passed over to Martin who quickly dispatched it and popped it into his kayak. One fish was not going to feed us all at dinner so I tried my luck again and caught an even bigger one. I was well chuffed. All I had heard on the trip so far was how good the Italians were had fishing. After this catch I heard no more and I duly thanked Neverrick for her gift.<br />
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We visited the Pilersouq at Kungmuitt and purchased some potatoes and vegetables to go with the Cod which was cooked on an open fire. We set up camp close to the drying rack of the under used fish factory to the north west of the settlement. Here there is an area of raised flat ground which gives a great view down Angmassalik Fjord. We had a great view of two Hiumpback Whales swimming together out in the Fjord.<br />
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After dinner the local hunters returned to the settlement in their boats following a few days away hunting. They first congregated on the far side of the Fjord and let off a loud volley of shots. All thre boats then raced across the water and into the harbour. FSC mentions in his book about the tradition of firing shots to alert a camp when they were arriving. Having witnessed this first hand I now felt like a tourist.<br />
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<b>Fri 12 August </b><br />
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No paddling today. We packed our kit bags instead of the kayaks and sat around waiting for the boats to arrive. Our pick up arrived at 10.30 and we were soon on our way back to Tasiilaq.<br />
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The rest of the trip was fairly routine apart from the pizza place being shut so we did not come off expedition food for another day. It was also shut the next day but I managed to buy some nice food from the supermarket.<br />
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We packed all the kit away ready for the winter and did some tourist stuff. We met Dina from the tourist information place who very kindly arranged for a Drum Dancer to visit our campsite and give us a cultural display to round off an amazing trip.<br />
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He told us a few stories and one about the Raven who wished to be a seagull I had read previously in FSC's book.<br />
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<b>Sat 13 August</b><br />
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An early start, our kit was quickly packed and moved down to the rocks ready for our boat pick up.<br />
Soon after we were on the plane and that was Greenland until the next trip.<br />
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<b>Conclusion</b><br />
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I started kayaking in 1968 when my school teachers decided to take a group of us on a trip to Wales. They decided to give us some on the water experience first in skin on frame kayaks. They were surely carrying on the tradition started by the returning members of the two BAARE expeditions. Kayaking has been a huge part of my life so it was an amazing adventure for me to go back to where it all started.<br />
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This expedition has paid homage to the men of the BAARE and especially to the memory of Freddie Spencer Chapman, Gino Watkins, John Rymill and Quintin Riley.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-7294587827237052592016-07-15T19:15:00.000+01:002016-08-27T16:21:29.638+01:00Searching for Gino Watkins 2016 - PreviewJust a brief blog post to bring my blog up to date.<br />
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It is nearly two years since my last visit to Greenland, which went so badly wrong. Despite the problems of the trip and the subsequent health issues I have decided to go again.<br />
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Preparations are almost complete and I fly to Iceland on 24 July 2016.<br />
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This time we have five team members including myself. Martin is once again leading and the other team members are: Geoff from Tasmania, Donna (USA) and John (Scotland). We have all been to Greenland at least twice before and we have many years paddling experience between us.<br />
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Our objective once again is Lake Fjord or Tugtilik to use its proper name. Whilst exploring the area around Lake Fjord we want to document the various campsites, land marks and water locations so that any paddlers who follow this trail will have information to act as a guide.<br />
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We shall take a hunters boat to a beach near to Sermiligaq after first stopping in Tasiilaq to pick up the kayaks and do a last minute shop. My main meals for the expedition have been purchased in the UK from Extreme adventure food <a href="http://extremeadventurefood.com/">extremeadventurefood.com</a> who have been very generous in supporting our adventure.<br />
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The intention is to paddle from Sermilgaq north east picking our way through the islands to Lake Fjord. One place I would like to return to is Depot Island, the site of the last campsite on my previous trip.<br />
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If we make it to Lake Fjord we would like to spend a few days exploring the area. As before the biggest obstacle will be Hell Corner. This is a twenty two mile stretch of exposed coastline named by the members of the BAARE's of 1930 and 1932. The jump off point will be the island of Store which is on the south side of a large fjord called Kangerdlugsuatsiak.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hell Corner on a fine day. Photo courtesy Geoff Murray</td></tr>
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Once we have crossed the entrance to Kangerdlugsuatsiak there is a small beach where we can land and make an assessment of the conditions. If they are not suitable we shall double back and explore the many local Fjords, many of which have yet to be paddled by a European.<br />
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I know from my stay in Tasiilaq hospital that this area is also well known as a good spot for hunting Narwhal so we hope to see some unusual wild life. I also intend to try and fish from the kayak using the same techniques that I was taught by Micheal who took me fishing out of Tasiilaq.<br />
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This promises to be another exciting trip which hopefully will end better than the last one.James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-62755147906540069242015-03-22T18:41:00.007+00:002020-07-10T11:09:32.079+01:00Exploring East Greenland 2014<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7d1EZpU67j1FL_ktrLNEZjIBsl6upo7T3UDZLlpjwOnbBYfegLcsShS_e44ScRHuwbEWxqWCYDgNKayF34Vk5Eog2Qxr80Ywrk_7pRw2Y00XKgE7octgxXIgg0-z0odMsXQZFmcpa6w/s1600/10461990_827593687274557_3934013423987965634_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7d1EZpU67j1FL_ktrLNEZjIBsl6upo7T3UDZLlpjwOnbBYfegLcsShS_e44ScRHuwbEWxqWCYDgNKayF34Vk5Eog2Qxr80Ywrk_7pRw2Y00XKgE7octgxXIgg0-z0odMsXQZFmcpa6w/s1600/10461990_827593687274557_3934013423987965634_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">photo courtesy Jim Krawiecki</td></tr>
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I have deliberated about updating my blog for sometime due to a number of reasons. Suffice to say this trip did not go according to plan and I feel it is important for a blog to be both interesting and informative. I hope this one fulfils both of those intentions.<br />
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As with all trips, the final preparations and work commitments make for a hectic few days. I was due to fly to Iceland from Heathrow on Monday 11 August with take off scheduled for 1pm. I did not relish the prospect of fighting the traffic along the M4 on a Monday morning so I decided to stay overnight with my brother in law Kev and his wife Tracey at their house in Harrow. The Saturday and most of Sunday morning was spent packing and repacking my kit to ensure that I could get it all into my respective bags. Sending packages to Greenland in advance has been deemed too difficult unless you ship out say a new kayak in a container and stuff it full of goodies such as camping kit and food. Even then it is not a cheap option. With this in mind I had bought myself a disposable kit bag and stuffed it full of expedition food. The additional baggage charge with Iceland Air was well worth the expense. I intended to ditch the kit bag and eat the food in Greenland so it was not necessary to pay for this bag on the return Easy Jet flight to Bristol.<br />
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Sunday evening arrived and the three of us went for a meal in a restaurant just up the road from Kev and Tracey's house. I had not been feeling well all day and I started to have breathing problems. Sitting outside in the air did not help and a very difficult night followed.<br />
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At about six in the morning it was clear that I was going nowhere. I lay on the bed surrounded by all of my kit feeling very sorry for myself and wondering what I had done to deserve this. Months of training and lots of expensive kit were about to be wasted.<br />
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I rang my daughter and she began the drive from the middle of Wales to come and collect me. I rang my Doctor for an emergency appointment and was told in no uncertain terms to go to a hospital.<br />
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So, three hours before take off and I am sitting in the A&E Department at Northwick Park Hospital in Harrow with an oxygen mask on.<br />
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The Doctor diagnosed an Asthma attack even though I had never had Asthma before. After about forty minutes my Stats had returned to normal and I was cleared to fly. I checked with Sam, one of the team members who was about to board his flight in Manchester, and his response was 'go for it'. I then had a rather difficult telephone call with my daughter who was by this time at Reading. I did not realise Lawyers knew such words. She refused to take me to the airport but Kev relented and I made the flight with a few minutes to spare.<br />
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I met up with Sam at the airport in Keflavik and we boarded the bus together to continue our journey into Reykjavik. We had booked into the city hostel for an overnight stay and we were met of the bus by Chris who informed us that the team had gone for a swim. The heated outdoor pool is next to the hostel and has various spa pools, steam room and slides. We had a nice relaxing time for the remainder of the afternoon and the steam room gave my lungs the chance to get some movement.<br />
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Six of us were staying at the hostel and we had had a team meal nicely cooked by Les. Unfortunately, the six of us were also sharing one room furnished with three bunk beds and ventilated by one small window. It was not easy to get to sleep. It was very warm and every time I moved it sounded like someone had come into the room and fired a shot gun. I started coughing quite badly and I was concious of spoiling everyone else's sleep. I grabbed my pillows and went down to reception and asked the very nice lady if I could sleep in the lounge. She explained that this was not permitted but due the fact that I was not well I could have a room on my own. I did not get a lot of sleep but at least I did not disturb anyone else.<br />
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We grabbed breakfast, made lunch packs from various rolls, cheeses and ham and took a taxi to the domestic airport. Some of us were aware that our packs looked quite large so we purchased some additional weight from the machines situated in the departure lounge. You get quite heavily penalised by Air Iceland if your bags are overweight but the charges are reasonable if you buy the weight before you check in.<br />
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It felt really good to be on the plane to Greenland at last and the team were in high spirits. As we neared Greenland it was possible to view from the air the places where we were about to paddle. Jim was able to point out the entrance to Lake Fjord some one hundred or so miles to the North.<br />
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The airport at Kulusuk is very basic, just one building where the departure and arrival lounges merge into one. The baggage gets off loaded onto a cart and driven around to the airport entrance for the passengers to unload themselves. The views are stunning and the ice is always a fascination.<br />
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After finding our baggage it was time to load up and make the long trek down the dirt road to the quayside. I made it about 1km to the first junction before I had to ditch my food. My main pack weighed nearly 30kg, the hand luggage about 5kg. My paddle bag complete with walking poles and fishing gear weighed about 7kg and the food another 10kg. I was thankful that it was downhill.<br />
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The quay at Kulusuk comprises one main jetty and rocks either side. Lars was in his boat waiting for us so we quickly loaded up and headed North. I had being doing ice reports for Martin for quite a few weeks before the trip but I was still surprised how little ice there was. Last year we had to trek much further into the main village because the quay closer to the airport was ice bound.<br />
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As we headed north up Angmassilik Fjord we passed some of the campsites that we had used last year. The most obvious one was the US Airbase at Ikatek which was clearly visible from the boat including all the rusting oil barrels and vehicles.<br />
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After a few hours we pulled into the small settlement at Sermiligaq. There were quite a few boats in the harbour which were moored using an unusual over head rope system. As we neared the jetty we could see Martin and the members of his previous trip waiting to greet us. Lars positioned the boat alongside the steel piles and we formed a chain to unload our bags. We compared notes with the other trippers and left them to load their bags for the return trip to Kulusuk.<br />
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Sermiligaq has a supermarket like all of the satellite settlements around the main centre of Tassilaq.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYkWx_teXPpOE0SYMsBptfga0I-UjflOqJOy46OaLSBtSuEYoiTVSpaqIyPVDZp6ABfbt4jrcxVYcqQkoOgzWhABev7LTX6DpifjL9lleqevysK7-gZZfmQ7OZ_7CBtiUZt41R5i3eWc/s1600/10628006_10152666032852390_7595045699441329084_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbYkWx_teXPpOE0SYMsBptfga0I-UjflOqJOy46OaLSBtSuEYoiTVSpaqIyPVDZp6ABfbt4jrcxVYcqQkoOgzWhABev7LTX6DpifjL9lleqevysK7-gZZfmQ7OZ_7CBtiUZt41R5i3eWc/s1600/10628006_10152666032852390_7595045699441329084_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim Krawiecki (Jimski) ponders over his shopping in Sermiligaq supermarket.</td></tr>
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This gave us the opportunity to top up our food supplies even further with various goodies such as chocolate, carrots, milk and for some even a little beer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90mmcFLxvLcfCq9mSbyoil0bCiAE0U8FI-TulaGN4N1lmi_uAM8coysJSAt2qFcTVCy4YdW0IVI8ubPOYARkSnJyUqziddu5JzFKSEhusc_UKgvbc1cg5ADI9-xUGuVxFl3vRWi4ycVg/s1600/IMGP1632_2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi90mmcFLxvLcfCq9mSbyoil0bCiAE0U8FI-TulaGN4N1lmi_uAM8coysJSAt2qFcTVCy4YdW0IVI8ubPOYARkSnJyUqziddu5JzFKSEhusc_UKgvbc1cg5ADI9-xUGuVxFl3vRWi4ycVg/s1600/IMGP1632_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">photo courtesy Sam Cook</td></tr>
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I was using the Rockpool Menai 18 that I had paddled last year so I was quite well practised at packing it. Even so I had rather overdone the top up food shop and struggled to get it all into the hatches. We were going in to the field for seventeen days and I was determined not to go hungry. I kept hold of my large dry bag and used this to carry some gear on the back deck. The boat was well loaded and when we eventually set off from the beach it took a bit of getting used to because it was low in the water but had a higher than usual centre of gravity.<br />
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Our plan was to use the remaining daylight to get to a campsite situated two hours north at the end of a Fjord named Ikasak. Good fresh water supplies are a must on a trip such as this and we wanted to record any suitable locations for future reference.<br />
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There is a good campsite in a bay just north of Sermiligaq which also has a clean water supply so this was our first stop.<br />
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It was a nice paddle from there to the campsite. The weather was calm and there was a bit of fog to add to the views. The warm air of The Gulf Stream meets the cold Arctic air coming down the East coast of Greenland so fog is very often present on calm days.<br />
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Our first campsite was situated on some rock slabs just south of Sarfaq Pynt. We found some grassy flat areas up above the slabs and set up camp. This years expedition food was not as tasty as the ones we had last year. I picked out a beef strogonoff but found it very difficult to eat it. The temperature had dropped a few degrees so a hot meal was very important after all the hours travelling.<br />
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We agreed on a bear watch rota and settled down for the night. I did not sleep well and spent most of the night coughing.<br />
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The next morning we launched from the slabs and set off on our first full days paddling. It was due to be a five thumbs journey or about 35km. The weather was super clear with a blue sky and a slight tail wind. We rounded Sarfaq Pynt and paddled west towards some large ice bergs. Once past these we headed into the open sea towards Jerne Sund which is a stretch of water inside the island of Tikivipik. At the north end of Jerne Sund is a very small gap which separates the island of Armilinarteq from the main land. This gap is less than ten metres wide but this route avoids paddling around the island. We passed through the gap and into a bay with the most stunning view. There were glaciers mountains and cliffs to the north and a nice sandy beach to the south. This was a lunch spot not to be missed. At the back of the beach was a large block of snow but this was not a suitable water supply because it was contaminated with grit.<br />
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After lunch we continued north west through another gap called Smal sund followed by an open crossing to the island of Gruse which was our next campsite. We also crossed LAT 66 degrees north so this was by far the furthest north I had been.<br />
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We landed on a very rocky beach near to a hunters hut. The actual campsite resembled a quarry with gritty patches which we used to pitch our tents on. We had to carry our kit up to the camping area. By now I was not feeling good at all and starting to think that I perhaps had a problem. I gave the strogonoff a miss and found the shepherds pie much more tasty and managed to get that down. One valuable tip is to bring a jacket for the food bag made from carry mat. The food tends to cool very quickly after the hot water is added and the jacket slows this process making the food edible for longer. The main meals were 8ooK and a pudding could add some 300K. Porridge for breakfast would be a maximum 500K probably less. So even topping up on bars and snacks it is very difficult to put back in more calories than the 2500K plus you are using during a day on the water. The main evening meal is the one meal not to be missed.<br />
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After dinner we went for a walk over to the hunters hut, or rather what remains of it. Inside we found a board with a list of names on it. This was the expedition to Lake Fjord in 2009 and amazingly the original pen was still there and it worked. We wrote our names on another part of the wall to continue the tradition.<br />
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Another difficult night followed. I was excused bear watch and I positioned my tent away from the others so that I did not keep them awake with my coughing. All through the night we could hear glaciers calving on the other side of Fjord.<br />
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The next morning and the weather had improved even more. It was quite warm and a dry suit did not feel at all suitable for the day even though we knew the water was still below freezing. I considered rolling down my dry suit and paddling in a fleece top. Instead I opted for the thinnest set of thermals that I had with me.<br />
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The first part of the paddle was due north across an open stretch of water. We wanted to get to the island of Store for our next night stop. For most of the morning the wind was light and we made good progress. We passed some massive ice bergs which I noticed were moving at quite a rate of knots. To the north of us we passed glaciers and mountains. The scenery was getting more rugged the further north we went.<br />
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Around eleven o'clock the wind picked up to a steady F4 from the north and the temperature immediately dropped. Most of us now had on our water proof tops and I was starting to regret wearing such a thin base layer. Progress slowed so the decision was taken to head into the lee of Depot Island for as rest and to regroup. We then landed on a small rocky beach to have lunch. I felt quite light headed and welcomed the break. I then made the mistake of having a knap. I had not slept well for four nights and lack of sleep was starting to have an effect. When I awoke I was very cold so I went to sit in the sun. At this point the team decided that enough was enough and that I was not going to get any better. We were at least four days paddling from Tassilaq and a rescue boat travels in an hour what a paddler can achieve in a day. Depot Island is about as far north as a boat from Tassilaq would want to travel. To carry on further from Tassilaq in my condition would not only have compromised the success of the expedition it could quite possibly put others at risk. I was not prepared to let either of those things happen so I reluctantly agreed to Martin making the call.<br />
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The decision was made to make camp on Depot Island. I got into my tent and sleeping bag to ensure that I did not get hypothermia and the rest of the team moved all the boats up off the beach.<br />
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When the tide comes in the beach completely disappears and the boats had to be hauled up into a small gulley at the top of the cliff. This gulley split the campsite in two but there was plenty of space.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIQYvw2gUAwecnfKEsN9zR_5ddhLdMWTHadFxWgujyGUh1_oRTE5aNdU_NyTo6vvb4jUGl3a9V2RQkWSf0P0SrKhJbG060YR8h6KcFyM88hHNDb1hnhL8XlN2LkJMn9o7SZ-ul8iHHkBs/s1600/DSCN0858.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIQYvw2gUAwecnfKEsN9zR_5ddhLdMWTHadFxWgujyGUh1_oRTE5aNdU_NyTo6vvb4jUGl3a9V2RQkWSf0P0SrKhJbG060YR8h6KcFyM88hHNDb1hnhL8XlN2LkJMn9o7SZ-ul8iHHkBs/s1600/DSCN0858.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This turf house is a replica built at the Tassilaq Museum.</td></tr>
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On one side there were the remains of some Inuit turf houses and a burial chamber so this location must have been well used in the past. It was a stunning if not noisy campsite with sea views on three sides.<br />
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The boat was not due to arrive until mid day so we all had a bit of a lazy start. I packed my gear and let the team pick through my food and goodies. I noticed all the remaining shepherds pie got swapped for beef strogonoff so I was not the only one who did not like it. The chocolate did not last long either. Various other items also disappeared such as reserve gas cooker, vacuum flask water bags and a flask. I was glad to help the team out but it did not help morale very much.<br />
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At about 1pm we could see the rescue boat but it had trouble finding us despite the use of flares and the shotgun. We eventually raised them on ch 16 using the vhf radio. This was the same frequency as back home.<br />
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Very quickly all my gear and the surplus kayak was on the boat. There were some sad goodbyes and my trip to Lake fjord was over.<br />
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The trip to Tassilaq took about four hours which was a quite along time to be bounced around in the back of a boat. It was also quite demoralising passing the various campsites we had just visited. As we passed Sermiligaq I took the opportunity to message home and inform them of the situation. One bonus of the trip was that we came up behind a whale and slowly passed within a few metres of it. Another first for me.<br />
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When we got to Tassilaq I was surprised to see an ambulance on the quay side, but it appears no one was taking any chances. I was kept in hospital for three nights and not cleared for flying for five days. My oxygen level was too low and I had Acute Bronchytis. My temperature was also low so the team had been right to be wary of hypothermia.<br />
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I spent the next day having a rest and enjoying the food. We had awful trouble sorting out the travel insurance and making arrangements to get home. The insurance company would not do a thing until they had my medical notes from my GP. Many faxes were exchanged which was quite difficult where not may people spoke English. Eventually we made the arrangements ourselves with no help from the Insurance company.<br />
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I was in a ward with two Greenlanders who were obviously a lot more ill than me. After two days the Doctor insisted I get out for a walk around the town to get my lungs moving. During one of these trips I paid a visit to the supermarket. I am aware that Greenlanders embrace '<i><b>the group</b></i>' philosophy approach to life and my two new friends on the ward seemed to appreciate the large bars of chocolate that I brought back. I was rewarded with big Greenlandic smiles. Anyone who has visited Greenland will know what I mean.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_W-E8Hcf20oWxPA6kN_qXBeJZ60hcwCt-oZWr8rhbWnd7GDnS3Zji5GS2kUyyXQwDu3M2dMWApC1TAB-jZWPWIhQB1SWNvQ3oFmOUGFRQClQgp5PVm-uvBnOvbIuUp2Dqn5AvqZCFkio/s1600/2014-08-18+13.48.38.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_W-E8Hcf20oWxPA6kN_qXBeJZ60hcwCt-oZWr8rhbWnd7GDnS3Zji5GS2kUyyXQwDu3M2dMWApC1TAB-jZWPWIhQB1SWNvQ3oFmOUGFRQClQgp5PVm-uvBnOvbIuUp2Dqn5AvqZCFkio/s1600/2014-08-18+13.48.38.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saying good bye to Dr Banke-Mikkelsen who had looked after me so well.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I was a little sorry to leave the hospital. I had received amazing care and treatment and was made to feel very welcome by the Doctor and all the nurses. I had even been taken shopping in the Ambulance which they seem to use as a taxi when its not needed for an emergency.<br />
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Two nights in the Angmassalik Hotel followed whilst I was waiting for flights. By this time I was feeling a bit stronger and I was determined not to waste my time in Tassilaq. Before leaving home I had visited the local fishing tackle shop and purchased various lures. The sales assistant was fascinated that I was visiting Greenland and insisted that I send him pictures of any fish that I catch.<br />
I had intended to hopefully supplement my expedition food with fresh fish during the stay at Lake Fjord. This was no longer possible but a quick chat to Lars and a trip out of Tassilaq was hastily arranged.<br />
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I met a local hunter Mikel on the quayside in Tassilaq early the next morning and we set off in his boat towards Kulusuk. I was getting to know this stretch of coastline quite well. We passed another of the campsites from last years trip and out to sea there were some large icebergs just to remind me of where I was.<br />
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I tend to get sea sick when a boat stops so I was relieved when we pulled into the entrance of a calm Fjord. Mikel took out a new hand line which was had various lures and a very large silver spinner on the end of it. This was duly dropped over the side and all 100m of the line was let out. He then added<br />
about another 20m and handed it to me.<br />
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Within minutes there was something on the end and I was instructed to reel it in. This was no easy task but a few minutes later and five large Cod were flapping around in the bucket. I am not sure<br />
what I was expecting to catch but those fish were a lot larger than I was expecting.<br />
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Between us we caught some twenty five fish in the space of two hours. Once the buckets and trays were full it was time to head back in. Because I had caught the first fish I was invited to dinner that night with Mikel and his family. By now I knew that that the Greenlanders have a penchant for chocolate and I was once again rewarded with big smiles of Mikels children. A great day to end such a demoralising trip.<br />
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My flights out of Tassilaq were arranged for early the next morning. There was no way that I could<br />
walk the 2K from the quay to airport with al my kit so I booked a flight on the helicpoter.<br />
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Yet another first. The flight gave fantastic views of the icebergs that I had seen on my fishing trip.<br />
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Our fishing spot is near the top of the picture.<br />
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The usual way that kayakers get from Tassilaq to the airport.<br />
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The runway at Kulusuk.<br />
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The weather still remained clear and I could easily pick out where I had paddled.<br />
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Depot Island is just left of the propellers.<br />
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The trip back to Bristol was uneventful and I was met by a rather stoney faced daughter who I think was actually pleased to see me.<br />
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I have reflected on this trip for some months now and have decided the best way to deal with the disappointment is to go back and have another go. Martin Rickard has kindly decided to support me with this so hopefully summer 2016 will prove more successful.<br />
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I had learnt some valuable lessons. The first one is how surprisingly easy it is to kill yourself. Apparently, according to the Doctor in Tassilaq I was about one day away from pneumonia. To have continued would probably have been fatal. it is important to listen to your body and speak up. The ease at which someone can go hypothermic is frightening. I may have been run down but laying down in a cold wind with light thermals on was just silly. I will not do that again, in fact I have bought myself a Kokotat Storm Cag just for lunch stops.<br />
Quite clearly a 'I am fine' mentality can quite easily kill you. I was very fortunate to be with such a good team. I will always be grateful for their support and have no problem apologising here for the inconvenience I caused them.<br />
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I had an interesting chat with the owner of the Angmassalik Hotel who kindly gave me a lift to the heliport. He did not have a very high opinion of us kayakers because apparently we arrive one day and we are gone the next without spending any money with him so that is quite understandable. He is also of the view that as the ice melts and tourism grows and more people venture into the outdoors someone is going to get hurt. I was fortunate that we had an exit strategy that worked. This was down to the proffesionalism of my friend Martin Rickard, the support of our team and the backup of Lars Anker at Travellodge Greenland. If others do not put this sort of plan in place it will be interesting to see if Hendrik's prediction comes true. Greenland does not take prisoners.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9kzQBsHpvAnLBkP1cosI65Z9CBuZiidG9H9fOABnKkBS9mAuphb3MqG3ZJTLmkxttLOQNOXoORFAC_AHNBTbo5q_pVKxWuruRNXAaetaQr4pqjkhyZhUur-4d7z02S7PGKa-6vpgB5Q/s1600/DSCN0774.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs9kzQBsHpvAnLBkP1cosI65Z9CBuZiidG9H9fOABnKkBS9mAuphb3MqG3ZJTLmkxttLOQNOXoORFAC_AHNBTbo5q_pVKxWuruRNXAaetaQr4pqjkhyZhUur-4d7z02S7PGKa-6vpgB5Q/s1600/DSCN0774.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My friend Martin Rickard</td></tr>
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As for the rest of the team:<br />
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They continued with their adventures:<br />
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but that is for them to tell you about.<br />
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To be continued 2016<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-70370989635768900582014-07-21T20:34:00.002+01:002014-07-21T20:37:11.829+01:00Watkins Expedition East Greenland 2014 pt 2 - update 21 July 2014It is now a little under three weeks until I fly to Iceland and then on to Kulusuk on the East coast of Greenland for the start of the expedition to Lake Fjord. This is where Gino Watkins drowned whilst seal hunting from his kayak on the 20th August 1932.<br />
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Our team leader Martin Rickard <a href="http://www.seakayakadventures.co.uk/">Seakayakadventures</a> has commenced his first trip of this years season and is currently on the West side of Sermilik Fjord. From their position via Spot the team appear to have made excellent progress since leaving Tasiilaq last Friday.<br />
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I am sending them regular weather and ice updates via sat phone whilst also monitoring their progress on Spot.<br />
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We have devised our own code for sending these updates and we use the chart below to give information on a number of locations.<br />
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Numbers 1 to 10 are very much like the numbers of a clock using Angmagssalik Island as its clock face. Number 11 is in Sermilik Fjord near to Martins present location and north of the settlement of Tiniteqilaq which is near to number 10.<br />
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The settlements around Angmagssalik are supplied from the main base at Tasiilaq which is at number 5. The supply boat visits once a week with various supplies including stocks for the local supermarkets.<br />
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The supply boat Johana Kristina approaching Kuumiut.<br />
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The settlement furthest north and on the East coast is Sermiligaaq. The plan is for Martin to complete his second trip at Sermiligaaq and transport the team back to Kulusuk airport by boat. Our team will then travel on the boat up to Sermilgaaq where Martin and the kayaks will be waiting together with equipment previously shipped to Tasiilaq.<br />
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We will then have a short window of opportunity to purchase last minute supplies from the local supermarket before heading north up the coast towards Lake Fjord which is around point number 19 under the cloud.<br />
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We aim to stay on site at the old 1932 base and spend up to five days exploring the glaciers and surrounding mountains. If the weather holds it may be possible to travel further north into the arctic circle as well as exploring some of the adjacent Fjords. Some of which have yet to be paddled by a European kayaker. Local information we have received is that one of these fjords is the home to a large number of Narwhal.<br />
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Today's satellite picture is unusually clear and gives an excellent perspective on current ice conditions. As mentioned Martin is currently near to point 11.<br />
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Sermilik fjord usually contains a large amount of ice due to the fact that it is fed by two large glaciers. I think this is where this trip may be heading.<br />
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The ice often chokes at Pupik ( No. 8 ) because the Fjord narrows and also becomes shallower. The satellite picture shows it to be clear which would suggest that these are good ice conditions for kayaking and would account for Martins team's good progress.<br />
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There is quite a bit of clear water at Semilgaaq 15 - 17 and in the surrounding Fjords but Hell Corner (19) between Kangerdlugsuatsiak and Nigertusok is still choked. This is the crux of our trip and this ice needs to disperse if we are to make it around Hell Corner and into Lake Fjord.<br />
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Fingers crossed as we still have a month until we get there.James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-17872113507233903352014-04-07T18:18:00.002+01:002014-04-08T23:17:15.161+01:00Watkins Expedition East Greenland 2014 Part 1On the 12th August 2014 I will be joining a strong team of eight sea kayakers, all with Greenland paddling experience, from Great Britain and the United States. We will meet up at Sermiligaq on the coast of East Greenland and attempt to paddle approximately one hundred miles north to Lake Fjord (Tugtilik). This is the site of the base camp of the Second British Arctic Air Route Expedition and the place where Gino Watkins died on 20 August 1932.<br />
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The expedition will be led by Martin Rickard <a href="http://www.seakayakadventures.webeden.co.uk/#/watkins-exped-2014/4583042754">www.seakayakadventures</a> and Sam Cook assisted by Les Kirkpatrick and supported by the well known sea kayak film maker and guide book writer Jim Krawiecki <a href="http://www.pesdapress.com/p2/Welsh-Sea-Kayaking/product_info.html">Welsh-Sea-Kayaking</a><u> .</u><br />
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Lake Fjord has a latitude of 66 deg 19 min North so it is just outside the Arctic Circle. It has been visited by kayak previously but this is believed to be the largest kayak expedition since the original BAARE in 1930.<br />
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The coast north of Sermiligaq is extremely rugged and fully exposed to the North Atlantic. During the first two days it may be possible to paddle to the rear of the numerous islands en route in order to minimise the effects of the swell. There may also be issues with sea ice which could hamper progress.<br />
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The final days paddling will involve firstly a long crossing across the entrance to Kangerdlugsuatsiak followed by a difficult section of coastline with steep cliffs, named Hell Corner by the 1930 expedition. After Kangerdlugsuatsiak there is no realistic place to land until Lake Fjord. This is potentially the most difficult and hazardous part of the trip. The success or failure of the expedition will be determined by the weather here.<br />
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The object of the 2104 Expedition is to explore some of the area around the original base camp, including the glacier where Gino Watkins died, from the sea and by foot. In addition it is hoped to 'live off the land' a little by supplementing our diet with some fish hopefully caught by members of the expedition.<br />
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It is also the intention to remain on site until 20 August in order to commemorate the death of Gino Watkins.<br />
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The trip will expose the team to numerous hazards including moving ice, potential foul weather including storms, heavy seas and of course polar bears.<br />
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During the weekend of 5/6 April 2014 six members of the team met up on Anglesey to enjoy some paddling and to get to know each other.<br />
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On the Sunday time was spent practising rescue scenarios under the Menai Bridge which gave the opportunity to start some team building.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-81594172293021936442014-02-08T19:38:00.004+00:002021-10-07T08:30:21.776+01:00Freddie Spencer Chapman's KayakSo who was Freddie Spencer Chapman? one description I have read was that he was the most famous war hero that you have never heard of. He certainly had an amazing life. A quick search on the internet reveals much about his life and his exploits. My search has prompted me to buy his autobiography which I am about to start reading.<br />
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So where is the connection between this amazing man and kayaking?<br />
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It is logical to start reading about Gino Watkins, Greenland and his expeditions by first reading Gino Watkins by J.M.Scott. In this book you receive an introduction to Freddie Chapman who was primarily the expeditions Ornithologist. You are also given an insight into his strength of character when he is tasked with relieving Augustine Courtauld who was forced to spend a winter on the ice cap alone. FSC did not locate Courtauld but only gave up when all options had been exhausted.<br />
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J.M.Scott's book finishes abruptly when Watkins dies. FSC picks up the story in his book Watkins' Last Expedition. He gives a description of Ginos' death but at no time is there any mention of the expedition being aborted. In fact the remaining team members went on to complete all the original objectives although there were just three of them. When I read his book for the second time I became aware that the authors writing had a definite no none sense approach. This prompted me to research who he was.<br />
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Gino Watkins certainly picked a strong team for his expeditions.<br />
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After the second British Air Route Expedition Freddie Spencer Chapman went on to explore Lapland with a reindeer. This was followed by an appointment in Tibet where he was at first tasked with locating the Dalai Lama. He then taught outdoor education at Gordonstoun School where Prince Philip The Duke of Edinburgh was a pupil. When the Second World War broke out he was posted to Australia and tasked with training Special Forces. He was in Singapore when it fell to the Japanese and then stayed behind the enemy lines for the next three years fighting a guerilla war. He was so successful at this the Japanese thought they were fighting a force of over 200. He was decorated for his achievements but apparently Lord Mountbatten was very upset that he did not receive the recognition he deserved by virtue of a VC.<br />
After the war FSC was given the task of setting up a school in Germany for soldiers children. Once this was done he went to South Africa and became head of St Andrews College in South Africa. He left SA due to appartheid. He then became a warden at halls in Reading University.<br />
In 1971 suffering back problems and racked by jungle diseases he took his own life in his office. He left a note to his wife stating that he did not want her to nurse an invalid for the rest of her life.<br />
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This is a brief summary of Freddie Spencer Chapmans' life there are plenty of other sources to read about him in particular:<br />
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<a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1223995/The-man-army-How-Cambridge-educated-botanist-fought-year-war-4-000-Japanese-troops.html">http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1223995/The-man-army-How-Cambridge-educated-botanist-fought-year-war-4-000-Japanese-troops.html</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jungle-Soldier-Freddy-Spencer-Chapman/dp/1849160767">http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jungle-Soldier-Freddy-Spencer-Chapman/dp/1849160767</a><br />
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This is a blog about kayaking so back to the main subject. On page 102 of the book Watkins' Last Expedition Freddie Chapman describes his kayak which had just been made for him in Angmagssalik and then covered by his friend the Inuit Enoch who was staying in Nigertusok Fjord to the south of the base camp at Lake Fjord. He describes how this kayak was much more stable than the one lost earlier in the expedition when it was cast adrift in a storm. Later in the book he describes how he had to spend twenty hours in the kayak storm bound at sea.<br />
When the expedition was over Knud Rasmussen arranged for the teams equipment to be collected from Lake Fjord and eventually shipped back to Britain. It occurred to me that the expedition would not wish to lose their kayaks again.<br />
After a little more research I came across the book <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eastern-Arctic-Kayaks-History-Technique/dp/1889963259">http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eastern-Arctic-Kayaks-History-Technique/dp/1889963259</a> in this book the author gives details of a kayak surveyed by John Bland in 1987 and stored at Atlantic College, St Donats in The Vale of Glamorgan. It would appear that this kayak is the one described by Freddie Spencer Chapman in his book.<br />
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The College very kindly arranged a visit for me to view the kayak and here it is:<br />
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The kayak is 5286 mm long, 481 mm wide and 187 mm deep.<br />
How a man the size of Freddie Spencer Chapman was able to sit in this boat let alone paddle it for twenty hours is beyond my comprehension.<br />
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I am not sure how the kayak got to Atlantic College but John Brand seemed to believe it was genuine. He also wrote a very interesting book The 'Small Kayak Book' which is currently out of print.<br />
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So there we have a piece of history right on my doorstep.<br />
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I started my kayak exploits in a SOF kayak and I have seen the sport evolve through SOF, plywood to composite and plastic kayaks.<br />
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Many thanks to Atlantic College and Simon Neenan for arranging my visit.<br />
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The other members of the second expedition were:<br />
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John Rymill - (Cartographer) the year after he led an expedition to Graham Land in Antarctica. He was a farmer in Southern Austarlia and died in 1968 after a car accident. His expedition to Graham Land was commerated by a kayak expedition led by<br />
Andrew Mcauley <a href="http://www.andrewmcauley.com/rymill.html">http://www.andrewmcauley.com/rymill.html</a><br />
I have a copy of the finished survey by John Rymill and this is still usable for navigation in the area of Lake Fjord.<br />
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Quintin Riley - ( Meterologist ) He joined John Rymill on his Graham Land expedition and was the Polar Adviser to the film Scott of The Antarctic. His kayak was also surveyed by John Bland and is kept at The Town Hall Braintree Essex. He too had an outstanding war career and rather bizarrely also died in a car accident in 1980.<br />
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My trip to Lake Fjord in August will remember a strong team of four outstanding men and not just Gino Watkins.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-14699290979278417732013-12-15T16:32:00.004+00:002020-07-13T14:32:47.415+01:00Who was Gino Watkins? So who was Gino Watkins? There has been plenty written about him over the years. The most recent book being published fairly recently in 2008. His biographer J.M.Scott opens his book with the phrase 'Watkins Explorer England' and describes how Watkins was so famous these four words were sufficient for a cable to be delivered to him at The Royal Geographical Society HQ in 1932.<br />
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Today however it is a different story many people young and old will never have heard of him but, to me and many other like minded sea kayakers he is an inspiration, a legend even.<br />
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So why is he given this status? the best way to understand this is to read about his life and his exploits. This is a selection of the many books written about him which are available on-line:<br />
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Gino Watkins by J.M Scott - pub. Hodder & Stoughton 1935 & 1946<br />
Watkin's Last Expedition - F.Spencer Chapman - pub. Hazell Watson & Viney 1953<br />
Gino Watkins - John Ridgway (of Atlantic Rowing fame)<br />
Dancing on Ice - Jeremy Scott 2008<br />
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The paper 'Watkins Explorer England' by Duncan J D Smith gives an excellent account of Watkins' life without the need for extensive reading (unless you want to)<br />
<a href="http://www.duncanjdsmith.com/uploads/documents/tratra/ginowatkinsbio2.pdf">http://www.duncanjdsmith.com/uploads/documents/tratra/ginowatkinsbio2.pdf</a><div><br />
When you consider that Watkins was only twenty five when he died and that he was leading his fourth major expedition to one of the remotest and potentially hostile places in the world it is very important that he is not forgotten. It is also important that younger people learn about the tenacity and strength of spirit that he so obviously possessed which allowed him to achieve so much in so short a life. The Gino Watkins Memorial Fund maintains his link to the Polar Regions by assisting expeditions <a href="http://www.spri.cam.ac.uk/about/funding/ginowatkins/objectives.html">http://www.spri.cam.ac.uk/about/funding/ginowatkins/objectives.html</a><br />
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The main inspiration which I take from reading about Watkins is firstly his style of leadership which was a new concept in his day. Namely his ability to provide strong leadership coupled with the ability to consult his team without the semi military style being used on previous expeditions. Then there is the concept developed by Knud Rasmussen of living off the land and travelling light. To do this without the modern technology we have today you have to learn to hunt, live and kayak like the subsistence Inuit hunters used to.<br />
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Duncan Smith states that Watkins was probably the first European certainly British person to master the art of paddling a Kayak. The level of his skill and that of his companions is where my personal interest arises from. There is no doubt that they were extremely proficient paddlers and also learnt the associated skills of kayak building and paddle making all taught to them by the local Greenlandic people.<br />
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Watkins drowned at Lake Fjord or to call it by its Greenlandic name Tugtilik. This is situated just over one hundred miles north of Angmassilik on the East coast of Greenland.<br />
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There is a large memorial cross erected on a rocky headland in the Fjord and I am fortunate enough to be able to attempt to visit the Fjord next August with Martin Rickard and a party of sea kayakers. Martin was my guide for the trip to Greenland in August 2013.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBh6hBRc0hRs9v98AZN6bQ9et-yvdILfcRl6hwi1IYA7gJAQJk17BnhL_V7r58hOIu7ligj2YrEdByKldlcGqqp5uQ-_37nLJic64JhIO9FaAQfd8LzjK_xvrjdI41H0rV4Hy_wAtk7Q/s1600/Martin+Rickard+Tugtilik.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBh6hBRc0hRs9v98AZN6bQ9et-yvdILfcRl6hwi1IYA7gJAQJk17BnhL_V7r58hOIu7ligj2YrEdByKldlcGqqp5uQ-_37nLJic64JhIO9FaAQfd8LzjK_xvrjdI41H0rV4Hy_wAtk7Q/s320/Martin+Rickard+Tugtilik.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin Rickard at Tugtilik</td></tr>
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This will be an exciting expedition up the East coast of Greenland and very close to the Arctic Circle. Weather and ice permitting we hope to spend a few days at the old BAARE Base camp and experience some of the lifestyle associated with the place.<br />
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Hopefully, my Blog posts will help to maintain the memory of Gino Watkins. More to follow.<br />
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<br /></div>James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-39350906874623534102013-10-03T20:53:00.000+01:002013-10-03T20:53:14.550+01:0014 Days in Greenland - Kit ReviewI purchased a fair bit of new equipment to use on my Greenland trip. Deciding which items to buy took many months of trolling the internet and talking to other people about what kit they use. Hopefully some of my experiences might be useful to other paddlers who are embarking on similar trips.<br />
This kit review is written from my Greenland trip perspective, quite a few of the items have reviews on the websites where they can be purchased and I realise that these reviews are more eloquent and go in to greater detail than mine.<br />
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I have given the various items a mark out of ten, this only reflects on whether or not they did the job. You will have to decide for yourself if you wish to purchase any of it. I have also given certain items a star rating this is for the best bits I bought.<br />
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<b>**Tent: Terra Nova Quasar Superlite</b>.<a href="http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/tents-and-spares/all-tents/superlite-quasar-tent/">terra-nova.co.uk/superlite-quasar-tent/</a> I chose a lightweight tent due to the 20kg baggage allowance imposed by Iceland Air. We were penalised for excess baggage on our departure from Kulusk. This tent is extremely lightweight and more than suitable for backpacking. The website states that the tent equates to 1.25kg per person. I slept in this two man tent on my own and had plenty of space. I have reservations about the tent being too lightweight for an expedition and with hindsight I would probably buy the standard tent and pay the excess baggage charge. I have had no problems with the fabric so far but I did replace one pole before the trip due to the end of one ferrule becoming splayed. This was not cheap at £45. During one windy day the tent poles did distort quite alarmingly but the poles were more than up to the job and when I turned the tent into the wind it was fine. The porch is quite small and if you wanted to cook in the tent it would probably be best to use a cooking stove something like a Trangia. Terra Nova do sell an extended porch version of the fly sheet. I packed the fly sheet into a separate dry bag rather like a stuff sack. If the fly is wet the inner then has a chance to keep reasonably dry. The inner tent was packed into an Exped compression dry bag which made in it really compact. The poles were pushed up alongside the skeg box and the inner and fly were packed into the rear hatch up against the seat bulkhead. This arrangement worked really well. <b>9/10</b><br />
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<b>***Sleeping Bag: Western Mountaineering Badger</b>. <a href="http://www.westernmountaineering.com/index.cfm?section=products&page=Sleeping%20Bags&cat=Microfiber%20Series&ContentId=34">westernmountaineering.com</a> I do not like feeling restricted across the shoulders when using a sleeping bag. My previous sleeping bag was a Rab Quantum which was an excellent bag but just to tight for me. Western Mountaineering bags are manufactured in San Jose USA. The WM website allows you to choose the size of bag you would like i.e waist and shoulder width. I am not aware of any other manufacturer who allows you to do this. I was able to pick a bag suitable for my height and with a large shoulder measurement. The bag is very well made with a silky feel to the fabric. It does pack away neatly but a compression bag is needed to get it down to its smallest size. <b>9/10</b><br />
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<b>***Sleeping Mat: Exped Symat 9LW</b>.<a href="http://www.exped.com/exped/web/exped_homepage_na.nsf/0/4353A03482F4BE77C1257848002221C5?opendocument">www.exped.com</a> I have used Kari Mats and Thermorests but this mat beats them all hands down. It packs away smaller than a Thermorest but gives a full 90mm of padding beneath you. It is wide across the shoulders so that you do not fall off it when moving in your sleep. It is definitely as comfy as my bed at home. It is also well insulated. It is well worth reading the info on the Exped website to find out more about the thermal properties. It takes me about 4 mins to blow the mat up which I imagine would be a right pain to some but I am not going to mark it down because the effort is worth the brilliant nights sleep you get with it. I was informed that during bear watch it was apparent that I do not snore but the Synmat makes quite a large rustling noise when I fidget. <b>10/10</b><br />
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<b>Stove: Primus Omnilite Ti. </b><a href="http://www.primus.eu/omnilite/">primus</a> Gas canisters are on sale in the supermarkets at the larger settlements in Greenland but a regular supply cannot be guaranteed. I therefore chose a multi fuel stove intending to use petrol as fuel. This one is not cheap at all but is very neat and compact. I purchased the stove from Cotswold Outdoors who had to order it in specially to the store as it was not a stock item. The first stove would not light at all due to there being no pressure when the bottle was pumped. CO exchanged it without any hassle. I used the second stove for a couple of months but then it too would not pressurize due to the washer in the pump disintegrating. CO duly returned the stove to Primus. Six weeks later the pump came back and worked prefectly. Unfortunately someone stole the bottle on the first night of the trip so I had to revert to gas. The stove worked perfectly well on gas but rather defeated the object of buying such an expensive stove. It comes with a rather neat folding bag which packed into the kayak hatches very well. There were ten stoves in use on the trip and without doubt the one stove which outshone all the others when powered by petrol was the MSR Dragonfly.<b> 5/10</b><br />
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<b>***Dry Suit: Kokatat Expedition. </b>We were due to paddle in fairly exposed conditions for a total of twelve consecutive days. I wanted to be as comfortable as possible so there was only one suit to buy. I spent two hours in the shop trying on various suits but this one was just in a class of its own. You get what you pay for and this is a classy bit of kit. I particularly like the overall feel to the suit which is not bulky and gives a great deal of movement. It does not restrict my paddle storkes at all. I wear thin running socks on the inside and Palm Index wet suit socks on the outside to protect the Goretex socks. Mr Wilcox puts it far better than I ever could. I hope you do not mind the link Douglas <a href="http://seakayakphoto.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/kokatat-gore-tex-expedition-dry-suit.html">seakayakphoto.</a> <b>10/10</b><br />
<b><br /></b><b>*Sweet Protection Onesie: </b><a href="http://www.sweetprotection.com/ski-and-snowboard/technical-clothing/?p=saviour-fleece-suit&pid=593">sweetprotection.com/ski-and-snowboard/technical</a> I had been looking at this item for months but felt that I could not justify the cost. Once the warm summer weather was here the shop was going to have trouble selling the last remaining few so I asked for a deal and they came up with one. This undergarment is so comfortable that at one point I did not take it off for over four days which is a fantastic advert for this and the Kokatat Dry Suit. The onesie is three quarter length which puzzled me at first but when combined with ankle high wet suit boots it works perfectly. <b>10/10</b><br />
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<b>*Teva Cherry Bomb 2 Wet suit boots: </b>Another superb piece of kit. My feet stayed 100% warm all trip despite constant wet launches and landings which was not a bad effort considering the temperature of the water. I particularly liked the easy way they could be put on, the amount of ankle support and the stiff grippy sole. I bought a size one higher than my normal shoe and had no trouble fitting them into the kayak. <a href="http://www.whitewaterthecanoecentre.co.uk/teva-cherry-bomb-2-2063-p.asp">teva-cherry-bomb-2</a><br />
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<b>Exped Dry Bags:</b><br />
<a href="http://www.exped.com/exped/web/exped_homepage_na.nsf/0/779DA14028C36DA4C12579C7002AB385?opendocument">www.exped.com</a> t is essential to pack your kit into many small dry bags because large bulky bags will not fit through the hatches. I have read that these bags do not keep your kit 100% dry. On the trip I did not experience any leakages at all. They are very good value for money and do the job fine. <b>10/10</b><br />
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<b>Watershed Dry Bag: </b><a href="http://www.drybags.com/">http://www.drybags.com/</a> One piece of kit I was determined would not get wet was my down sleeping bag. I therefore purchased a dry bag that was guaranteed to keep it dry. This bag did the job fine but it is not cheap and was quite bulky. These are the only reasons it gets marked down a bit. <b>8/10</b><br />
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<b>Northwave Deck Bag:</b><a href="http://northwater.com/html/products/sea_kayak/SKsubdirectory/Peaked-Deckbag-reflective-tape.html">http://northwater.comDeckbag</a> It has become fashionable recently to include a fourth hatch in modern sea kayaks just forward of the cockpit. Sometimes called the 'sweetie hatch'. I have one on my Cetus and it works just fine - for sweets. If you want to carry a bit more kit to hand then this is an excellent bag. It takes two food flasks with ease, one for coffee the other for soup and allows you to have a nice lunch even if you cannot land. It also helps you maintain a good paddle technique by keeping your arms up. I do not find it bulky or heavy but it is not and a dry bag so it is not waterproof. <b>10/10</b><br />
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<b>*Beatons Midge Net: </b><a href="http://www.midgejacket.co.uk/jackets.html">www.midgejacket.co.uk</a> The mosquitos and flies in Greenland are pure evil a midge net is an essential requirement at times. This net comes in the form of a jacket which is more bulky than just a head net but it allows you to eat you food under cover. <b>10/10</b><br />
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<b>Cooking kit: - just a couple of quick reviews.</b><br />
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<b>Primus Titanium pot 800ml: </b>Very lightweight but a little small at times. Great for back packing but a slightly larger one when kayaking would work better. The box it comes in shows a gas canister fitting neatly inside which works fine but after a short time the canister wears the none stick off in the bottom and the pot shows signs of rust. Some form of padding is therefore needed to prevent this. <b>8/10</b><br />
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<b>Titanium Spork: </b>Not at all sure why I purchased this, the plastic ones are a tenth of the price and work just fine. Up and Under in Cardiff is an outdoor enthusiasts heaven and I got carried away. What I should have bought was a titanium fork and spoon set which you can buy in a long version. These reach the bottom of the expedition food pouches which allows you to stir in the water and eat the food without getting it all over your hands.<br />
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<b>Trangia Mess tin: </b>Very useful for carrying bits n bobs. Cheap as chips at £7 great for eating your Oats so Simple in the morning.<br />
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<b>Kayaking Talk:</b><br />
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<b>Boat :</b>I was allocated a Rockpool Menai 18 Kayak. I had not paddled a Rockpool before and overall this was an excellent expedition boat. I particularly liked its general handling and stabilty, its superb manourverablity even when loaded. It was fast in a straight line and surfed like a dream. I did not particularly like the footrest and seat set up, the unpadded seat and the wayward skeg cable in the rear hatch.<br />
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<b>Paddles: </b>Werner Shuna, I also have Werner Corryvrekins but I find these too large for a loaded kayak. The Shunas on the other hand are a great paddle, but paddles are such a personal choice a review is probably unnecessary.<br />
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<b>Things I should have taken:</b><br />
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Two small food flasks for coffee and soup afloat ( I have these now - see above)<br />
Long fork - see above<br />
Dry thermals for around camp, it was chilly when the sun went down.<br />
Heavier trousers for around camp, it is tricky leaving Heathrow in the middle of a heat wave and finding yourself two days later in full winter conditions.<br />
More food - thank goodness for the supermarkets, I would have starved otherwise. This needs a lot of work to get right. Also, there needs to me more variety and goodies Do not rely just on bars. Dried fruit, nuts and chocolate are a must together with tea coffee and hot chocolate.<br />
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I hope you find some of this useful.<br />
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<b><br /></b>James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-29839848440210842132013-09-24T08:45:00.000+01:002013-09-24T08:45:10.143+01:00 14 Days in Greenland 8<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Today was Tuesday and our flights out of Greenland were not until Friday morning. It was a little disappointing that our trip was being cut short by a couple of days but that is one of the things that has to be expected with a trip such as this. Our last expedition campsite was only a few kilometres to the east of Tasiilaq so this was going to be a short paddle back to base.</div>
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First we had to launch. The wind had picked again and this produced a few waves which led to a tricky launch off the rocks. Quite a bit of Martins gel coat was unfortunately left behind. We launched one by one assisted by the team members that were awaiting their turn to launch. Martin heroically took the last place and was faced with a wet entry.</div>
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Once we were all afloat we regrouped and headed out into the North Atlantic. Most of the ice had dissipated since the previous boat trip so there was no protection from the Atlantic swell. However, we had a tail wind and could make excellent progress surfing along with the waves.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">There were still a few blocks of ice to keep us interested.</span><br />
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Some larger than others.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">It was not long before we saw the Vikings Nose in front of us which marks the entrance to the inlet leading to Tasiilaq harbour.</span><br />
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There were a few moist eyes as we paddled slowly against the flow. This had been an amazing trip, we were all tuned into living the expedition life and associated routine and I for one was wishing it had lasted a bit longer.</div>
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We had two options for the next two nights we could either go straight to Nam Beach and camp for three nights next to the town dump and heliport or we could continue to the head of the Fjord and pass the time in a more rural location. We unanimously chose the second option. </div>
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Each settlement has its own dump where all the refuse and waste is just pushed over a cliff. This was a great place to scavenge for wood so we paid a quick visit to the Tasiilaq dump and loaded the kayaks with enough wood for two nights beach fires.</div>
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The campsite was in a good location with a reasonable beach landing but was not without the usual mosquitos and flies.</div>
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We spent the next two days reading, fishing, walking and generally chilling.<br />
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Tasiilaq was within walking distance of the campsite and I was keen to visit the museum which had a kayak and various bits of kayaking and hunting equipment to view.<br />
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A few of us decided to walk into town via the the Valley of The Flowers which is a popular hiking route to the west of the town. There were a few places to try out some bouldering moves.</div>
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Approaching the town we passed the cemetery. This was very colourful and many of the graves were decorated with artificial flowers. 'The Greenlanders keep their relatives close' was a phrase that I had read and that seemed to be the case, death appears to be a way of life out here. The photographs on the graves brought home the fact that these were real people lying there. It had been a strange experience out on the trip to camp amongst burial cairns, with bones clearly visible under the rocks, but without the eerie sensation that you get with some of our grave yards back home.<br />
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We passed houses with the usual dog crew tethered outside.</div>
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During the winter apart from walking the other forms of transport are the helicopter snow mobile and dog sled.<br />
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This is a typical East Greenland sled which is longer than a typical West Greenland one. A longer sled makes it easier to cross open leads in the ice.<br />
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After a quick shop to buy some goodies and a look around the museum I headed back along the coastal path to the campsite. Just outside town were lots of dogs waiting for the weather to turn colder.<br />
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On the Thursday we struck camp washed all our kit in a fresh water stream and headed back to Nam Beach.<br />
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I had intended to complete the trip by executing a roll to finish. A dead Orca was floating in the harbour and was being gradually chopped up to feed the dogs so I decided against my 'Greenland Roll'.<br />
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The helicopter was still bringing in tourists.<br />
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Tasiilaq is home to just over 2000 people and is the largest town on the East coast of Greenland. It is a busy place with schools, supermarkets, police station, prison etc.</div>
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We paid a visit to the local service house to recharge our batteries. I had my first shower for two weeks and in a flash the expedition beard was gone.</div>
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This is a ball court under construction which was of interest to me because I will be doing the same thing when I get home.</div>
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We had a bumpy boat trip to the airport on the Friday morning which was in complete contrast to the one at the start of our visit. </div>
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After a long wait at the airport my first trip to this amazing place was over. </div>
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My words do not do the country justice but this tourist slogan helps:</div>
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GREENLAND - THE COOLEST PLACE ON EARTH!</div>
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-66464885621958312492013-09-17T21:07:00.001+01:002013-09-17T21:07:56.136+01:0014 days in Greenland 7<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
This was going to be a day of two halves. The pressure had dropped significantly over the passed twenty four hours and we were aware things were going to change.</div>
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For now the morning was the same as the day before except the temperature was much colder. The pogies came out to combat the wind and cold.</div>
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We headed south out of the channel and then turned north west up yet another narrow channel called Ikasak.</div>
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We were now paddling directly into the wind and there was no mistaking where we were.<br />
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As we approached Angmagssalik Fjord once more a fog bank was clearly visible on the west side.<br />
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Our planned route was to take us further south down the Fjord first on the east side to Avtonalik where we would then cross the Fjord to Nugartik. This was open crossing of six km into a fog bank. We had lunch just north of Avtonalik where there is a new hut. Unfortunately the hut was fully occupied by French sea kayakers who were not paddling that day due to the fog. We had gotten used to living out doors by this stage so this was not a big deal for us and we enjoyed lunch on the beach.<br />
Having taken our bearings we prepared to cross, however one of the team was suffering from over exertion and had to be towed across. The team took on the challenge and we made it to the other side without incident. We did come rather too close to a large trawler type vessel which made me feel quite vulnerable because I doubt the crew ever realised we were there.<br />
The weather took a turn for the worst and the quality of the photographs took a serious dip.<br />
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We were planning to camp at a historical site used by Knud Rasmussen for several months during his Fourth Thule Expedition of 1919 - 1920. He spent much of this time in the Angmagssalik area researching the Inuit culture and collecting artfacts.</div>
The site has the remains of old earth houses and it was apparent that it must have been quite busy during Rasmussens time here.<br />
We pitched our tents among the old ruins and cairns and there was a definite feeling that others had been here before us.<br />
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Just after the open crossing I managed to pick up a quite a large chunk of glacier ice which I believe could be up to 35000 years old. Glacier ice is quite distinctive form sea ice in that it is crystal clear and appears to contain no contaminants. This was duly melted in my pot and bottled. This quite unique drink now sits in my drinks cabinet awaiting a special occasion when it will be duly mixed with a nice single malt (probably Talisker).<br />
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This was another great campsite, competition for the best spot was quite intents. Please excuse the pun.<br />
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We had the, by now, usual campfire followed by dram o'clock.<br />
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This was our last proper expedition camp and I was not looking forward to getting back to civilisation and what some call the 'real world'.</div>
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James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-81495968490354983332013-09-17T20:13:00.001+01:002013-09-17T20:13:50.008+01:0014 Days in Greenland 6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
We left the campsite and the horrendous flies at the Ikateg airbase early as we were anticipating a long days paddle. The wind was forecast to increase over the next few days and we wanted to knock off a few miles in order to reduce the distance back to Tasilaq.</div>
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Our return route took us south west along the north west coast of Qianarteq until we joined Angmagssalik Fjord at Igterajik Kiateq where a burial cairn was clearly visible on the cliff. </div>
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An outstanding last resting place. </div>
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We had the option of heading straight down Angmagssalik Fjord but chose to take a route eastwards and to the outside of an unnamed island which was potentially more exposed but gave superb views to the east. This also involved our first real open crossing but with clear blue skies and despite a strong headwind we made good progress.</div>
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There was plenty of ice about and we kept close to the shore.<br />
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The weather was really superb, we were out of the wind with not a cloud in sight.<br />
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Some of the ice bergs were the biggest that we had seen so far.<br />
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We stopped for lunch on a pebble beach which was littered with ice bergs. This gave us plenty of photo opportunities.<br />
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After lunch we headed back out into the ice, this really was Greenland at its best.<br />
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Many of the ice bergs were grounded due to the tide being out which made them very unstable. This also produced some weird and wonderful shapes.</div>
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There was not a good quality water supply at the airstrip campsite so we took advantage of a large waterfall to top up our supplies. This involved a tricky landing and some team work to put one of us ashore.<br />
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There are numerous islands in this area. Our route was between Salissalik and Nuerniagkat.<br />
All through the trip we played a game of turning ice bergs into recognisable shapes this one was clearly a rabbit and was visible for quite sometime which gives an idea of how big it was.<br />
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To the south of Salissalik is another unnamed island its north coast features a number of stunning glaciers. Large amounts of ice had also become trapped here.<br />
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Our campsite for this stop was on the side of a beautifully clear channel called Nialigkap ikasa.<br />
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This was one of the best campsites on the trip and I managed to get one of the prime spots.<br />
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When the sun went down the temperature dropped instantly and you could actually see the suns shadow moving over the ground as it set.<br />
There was still snow adjacent to our tents and we considered having a go at glissading down it however it reached right to the beach and a brake failure would have proved interesting. This was truly weird considering it was August.<br />
We experienced true darkness for the first time during our bear watch and it felt like winter was not far away.James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-6080539093260257752013-08-24T21:19:00.002+01:002013-08-24T21:19:13.322+01:0014 Days in Greenland 5The weather forecast for the next few days was not looking too good. In order to maintain a reasonable safety margin it was decided to cut short the trip which meant the glaciers could not be visited on this trip, which makes for a great excuse for a return trip.<br />
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We left the campsite at Tuno and continued our journey NE towards towards the old US Airbase at Ikateq. Not to be confused with the village of the same name where we had camped at on our first night out of Tasiilaq.<br />
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The Tuno valley is a geography teachers heaven with glaciers, hanging valleys and all manners of rock features.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">photo courtesy Zoe Newsam</td></tr>
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It was easy paddling with great views.<br />
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We stopped for lunch at the airbase dump to enable some of the team to go trophy hunting.<br />
The rest of us compared yoga notes over soup and coffee.<br />
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We proceeded to the airbase beach which was the first mud that we had encountered on the trip. The campsite was on the flat ground between the beach and the runway, so once camp was established it was time to go exploring.<br />
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The airbase was called Bluie Two or BE - 2 more information here <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluie_East_Two">Bluie_East_Two</a> it was operational between 1942 and 1947. Apparently the Danes gave the US 24 hours to leave and this appears to be the case when exploring what remains.<br />
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It is a step back in history with earth moving equipment, dump trucks, rollers and other equipment scattered all around the place.<br />
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There are also thousands and thousands of oil drums left all over the site. In fact more drums than anyone is ever likely to see in one place. The pictures do not do this justice. After the US left the local communities squabbled over who should be entitled to the fuel left behind. They could not reach a settlement and the fuel just poured into the ground and the sea. There is still a faint smell all these years later.<br />
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We walked up the runway to the base and it was easy to imagine the drone of B 17 's coming in over the sea to land.<br />
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The base was involved in weather reporting and providing a beacon for navigation. Gino Watkins visited this place and the lake to the NW is mentioned in one his biographies. It is strange that his work in exploring the place with a view to providing assistance to air travel was finally used by the US during the war.<br />
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The base was also involved in many rescues more details here G<a href="http://www.jacksjoint.com/greenland_rescue.htm">reenland_rescue.</a><br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-35799014756444333532013-08-24T20:13:00.003+01:002013-10-03T17:30:18.172+01:0014 Days in Greenland 4Today we are facing an 8 hour paddle in order to relocate to the NE of Angmagssalik Island. It was hinted that this could be a bit of a chore but we wanted to explore further NE towards the Karale Glacier area so we just need to get this done.<br />
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The route took us along a long Loch like waterway nick named by Martin The Lairig Ghru after the Scottish mountain pass.<br />
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In any event the scenery along Ikasagtivaq although not changing very quickly made up for the length of the paddle and with frequent brew stops we achieved our objective in good time.<br />
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The campsite however was taken by other sea kayakers so we had to camp on the main island close by.<br />
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We had managed to scavenge wood along the route so we were able to get our camp fire going without too much trouble.<br />
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Overnight the weather changed and the next day we faced strong winds and rain. The wind also blew in the ice to close off our beach. The kayakers on the other beach also faced being blocked in so they chose to depart at the height of the bad weather. This gave some entertainment for us but I did not envy them one bit. Swimming in those conditions off the coast of Greenland is just not an option.<br />
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We battened down the hatches and sat out the day in our tents eating soup and reading. Some of us decided to move pitches due to rising water and tents not facing the wind and this was fun in the strong winds.<br />
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By the next morning conditions had improved, the ice had moved away and we were able get off the beach without any bother.<br />
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We headed NE across the entrance to Ikasagtivaqa and into Angmagssalik Fjord. The objective for the day was to visit the settlement at Kungmiut where we could get more supplies.</div>
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There was lots of ice in the Fjord which is fed by both the Karale and Rasmussen Glaciers. The wind was behind us and we made good progress.<br />
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The supply vessel Johanna Christen passed us on its way to Kungmiut and its wash gave us a chance to have a go at surfing.<br />
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We landed on the beach at Kungmiut next to quay.<br />
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Each of the major settlements have service houses where it is possible to use the laundry and showers whilst charging batteries and having a coffee. Many of the team went for a shower. I had not taken my thermals off for a few days and wanted to keep my spare one clean so I did not bother. The joys of expedition paddling.<br />
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During lunch we made the aquaintance of some of the local children who proved to be great company and provided us with some entertainment whilst teaching us Greenlandic and how to eat crisps by the 'Greenland Handful'<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA76d_G8JLqoMS98M2UJvtsP6gx83O_KWpDbnqt0RDJe0V4MrliJENACwCGYheQ3AX_j7NQUUCYlbdrLkhXR_ddLYV2MpLb0y_YfS7ldkqHB6XIwU6cATpW2dz4wQffoFQWXr4LcsFSCg/s1600/1150405_623735000993761_1006938136_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA76d_G8JLqoMS98M2UJvtsP6gx83O_KWpDbnqt0RDJe0V4MrliJENACwCGYheQ3AX_j7NQUUCYlbdrLkhXR_ddLYV2MpLb0y_YfS7ldkqHB6XIwU6cATpW2dz4wQffoFQWXr4LcsFSCg/s320/1150405_623735000993761_1006938136_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy Tiffany Hall</td></tr>
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After we had washed and resupplied we resumed our paddle NE along the stretch of water shown as Torssukatgk on the map through the narrows at llivtartik.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnmTmxgTWTIpHyli_xtBlc-Qima6L8sgUeo8CitMN8ngKToV_aXQi8IHrcuOA7tvyALJsEQ9HOeE45OozNwQ_sVH5qae4wjqkBUnHZ7zbcNsEskfp-0SbBU_CUSG6b2bwzMFpB3pM9yc/s1600/1001110_10151844821765987_710562187_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwnmTmxgTWTIpHyli_xtBlc-Qima6L8sgUeo8CitMN8ngKToV_aXQi8IHrcuOA7tvyALJsEQ9HOeE45OozNwQ_sVH5qae4wjqkBUnHZ7zbcNsEskfp-0SbBU_CUSG6b2bwzMFpB3pM9yc/s320/1001110_10151844821765987_710562187_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy Zoe Newsam</td></tr>
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The narrows did not always flow through to Tuno and blasting has been done so that now they only dry out at low water. High water was around 7.30 pm so we had to have a brew stop in order to make our campsite at Tuno.<br />
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This was fantastic campsite with views up and down the Fjord. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuEck9drrEVkyrA2BvqSQMRH2dKCkd-tw_5cnSq_97qZN1dd_5O3xiIGRhawaebbFLRCXJp8hRwQtx_bZmcBokUnZLdGxUfZPH5o-kGM1FcK1V835EMIaqzDd4wCCobPXVVl6HvHl2Ls/s1600/DSCN0300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuEck9drrEVkyrA2BvqSQMRH2dKCkd-tw_5cnSq_97qZN1dd_5O3xiIGRhawaebbFLRCXJp8hRwQtx_bZmcBokUnZLdGxUfZPH5o-kGM1FcK1V835EMIaqzDd4wCCobPXVVl6HvHl2Ls/s320/DSCN0300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It was also Actic Fox country and we were visited early the next morning.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6hcy5fhHbME5n-OSW7D_t94cVKxZ_AnUESNnd5HXby6tD0nRKioQ2pPn97m44mR0ZQtybrYj9zkMhC1DFj49OOKuiOjjKhM_P-4bmblQxdTMsbdMpx9QpWDoEuwY5GOSuR_k5mdOs5nw/s1600/526312_617928088239756_730669348_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6hcy5fhHbME5n-OSW7D_t94cVKxZ_AnUESNnd5HXby6tD0nRKioQ2pPn97m44mR0ZQtybrYj9zkMhC1DFj49OOKuiOjjKhM_P-4bmblQxdTMsbdMpx9QpWDoEuwY5GOSuR_k5mdOs5nw/s320/526312_617928088239756_730669348_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy Jeremy Lay</td></tr>
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-81417013314779216492013-08-24T19:43:00.003+01:002013-08-24T20:16:35.300+01:0014 days in Greenland 3Bear watch was completed at 7am so I settled into the routine of getting up at that time with the intention of leaving the beach at 9.30.<br />
The tide in most areas was negligible so this was not usually a consideration.<br />
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The tide had gone out over night so the local hunters fridge was exposed.<br />
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This was to be a short paddle today to our next campsite on an island at Ukiverajiko.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjCp56nVAjVd1blXY5ySYRcfPOn4EsH9dr3z1mOsvLLHULK62kXaxKyAZl-w7oOCXHV3oCcUksfiCR5EIbzRn57L_o5YchpyaDSAdZRhguqeiEnz5QHmSUcO3gf-u_N79gvV2hytWSIA/s1600/DSCN0220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtjCp56nVAjVd1blXY5ySYRcfPOn4EsH9dr3z1mOsvLLHULK62kXaxKyAZl-w7oOCXHV3oCcUksfiCR5EIbzRn57L_o5YchpyaDSAdZRhguqeiEnz5QHmSUcO3gf-u_N79gvV2hytWSIA/s320/DSCN0220.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There is a point at Pupik in Sermilik Fjord where the width of the Fjord narrows and the sea gets shallower. The result of this is that the ice gets chocked at this point which could affect our progress. We needed to reach this point with a full days paddling in front of us hence the short day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih63etLUH1NySNMNHb7M_bgU0nopP7e1tDtLeqzHex_NCHz94eaPmzACWy0BtVi1jGfoqKZ3e_atoFl0IsIcge3RJc3QXXSQ1QASZlo9QJbgfPm5crAQNZiztnZKQDXSNCYygw_PqHExs/s1600/DSCN0223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih63etLUH1NySNMNHb7M_bgU0nopP7e1tDtLeqzHex_NCHz94eaPmzACWy0BtVi1jGfoqKZ3e_atoFl0IsIcge3RJc3QXXSQ1QASZlo9QJbgfPm5crAQNZiztnZKQDXSNCYygw_PqHExs/s320/DSCN0223.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boss</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvKLEZi6FGi8r6VaXTbW9KRfUmlyzdYCPkT6ZCHDfRRlvl48E5rlAPN6zoGCa8yeD1F38gu5Il4QfKHR4oCeuUwrcQApgyfVBWf458o9VQufMSVvzk5mErex35SPuYWyfFgX7jd-INZI/s1600/DSCN0226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvKLEZi6FGi8r6VaXTbW9KRfUmlyzdYCPkT6ZCHDfRRlvl48E5rlAPN6zoGCa8yeD1F38gu5Il4QfKHR4oCeuUwrcQApgyfVBWf458o9VQufMSVvzk5mErex35SPuYWyfFgX7jd-INZI/s320/DSCN0226.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rockpool Team</td></tr>
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There was no water at the campsite so we had lunch in a cove with a waterfall in order to replenish our supply of drinking water.<br />
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Just after lunch we met a local hunter who congratulated us which was a nice boost to morale.<br />
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The island made a nice campsite with excellent views across the Fjord to Johan Petersen Fjord and the ice cap beyond.<br />
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Looking back at today's paddle</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKjahIKDBEXTyhlJV0S8_cnJa16b9efzikcSJSN6MnLLiyh07bldwdWnTjTb8hrPcqbi_rz4tXnLMzm-U1-vEgZdbvPtMhsYc0XzeeHtSoQsX_LGrBm6xu_nqKr8j-3ZLdfsnH3kY2YM/s1600/DSCN0241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKjahIKDBEXTyhlJV0S8_cnJa16b9efzikcSJSN6MnLLiyh07bldwdWnTjTb8hrPcqbi_rz4tXnLMzm-U1-vEgZdbvPtMhsYc0XzeeHtSoQsX_LGrBm6xu_nqKr8j-3ZLdfsnH3kY2YM/s320/DSCN0241.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iceberg photographed at 3 am</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglc6EH41XdxCbUK1HLxBLtVEY1y2Ppos6Ix7Mq4oRW5l0Nb8B1ljY7ZtP1njvc8mRIrFd65G19URg9O0Q3Lp9ytkoIwI2YxTS5tHVuW6zhf8_4g1Cm42IZzGLaQfOLkAij88KpyiX2eLI/s1600/DSCN0242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglc6EH41XdxCbUK1HLxBLtVEY1y2Ppos6Ix7Mq4oRW5l0Nb8B1ljY7ZtP1njvc8mRIrFd65G19URg9O0Q3Lp9ytkoIwI2YxTS5tHVuW6zhf8_4g1Cm42IZzGLaQfOLkAij88KpyiX2eLI/s320/DSCN0242.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical of rock formations in the area</td></tr>
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The next day we had a short paddle to Pupik where we able to assess the condition of the ice beyond.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZMSYZ3LV-oxyrGxkgth6nkKx8d6O1WOwHoZiyyOjlMA5nPNqTt815QsdnCGerlNKFoMhrJM62ZAIXOIIU3kUot3vB5DKfAIDtFngKZNW_vz0TkMkjFuBxRCx6Yeq5FAIKZgdIUUaDiZo/s1600/DSCN0243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZMSYZ3LV-oxyrGxkgth6nkKx8d6O1WOwHoZiyyOjlMA5nPNqTt815QsdnCGerlNKFoMhrJM62ZAIXOIIU3kUot3vB5DKfAIDtFngKZNW_vz0TkMkjFuBxRCx6Yeq5FAIKZgdIUUaDiZo/s320/DSCN0243.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unstable ice at the put in.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcv6Ka0nW1mQYOycraVcoT7wkAtkBrh9La6evMGJvnim8_rAtLOeuvR_yruY3_8IYNzGD6aDs08anMsAWo7Ie2vWUmI1PFsMkP8Mg2YRqd0842xLfo8THiHm5R5bj1biYrhIvGGd6N_E/s1600/DSCN0245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcv6Ka0nW1mQYOycraVcoT7wkAtkBrh9La6evMGJvnim8_rAtLOeuvR_yruY3_8IYNzGD6aDs08anMsAWo7Ie2vWUmI1PFsMkP8Mg2YRqd0842xLfo8THiHm5R5bj1biYrhIvGGd6N_E/s320/DSCN0245.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking for a route through from the view point at Pupik</td></tr>
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It was decided to stick close to the coast which limited our options with regard to leads through the ice but kept us within reach of safety on land.<br />
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We again made good progress and eventually turned into the channel at Sarpaqa and there we left the main ice behind.<br />
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We paddled into the village at Tiniteqilaq where we able to visit the supermarket and purchase more supplies.<br />
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To my surprise there was also a mobile signal which allowed me to ring home on my daughters birthday, another bonus.<br />
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The week before we arrived a polar bear had been shot and its skin was drying outside the hunters house.<br />
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The water supply for the village was a large tank/plant situated in the middle of the town so we were able to take on fresh water. I carried a 4 litre Ortileb water bag with a further 2 litre one as a reserve. I found this to be sufficient for the whole trip but I am aware that other team members carried slightly more.<br />
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After replenishing our supplies we paddled out of the harbour to a beach campsite opposite.<br />
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We managed to scavange wood and built another fire. This kept us warm during bear watch and due to a considered higher risk the gun was left more available.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">A couple of weeks before a bear had appeared on ice flow in Tasiilaq harbour so the risk was indeed present.</span></div>
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-35297591273267577182013-08-24T19:43:00.002+01:002013-08-24T19:43:12.534+01:0014 days in Greenland 2After a restless night due to the continuous howling of the dogs I awoke to discover that some low life had stolen my Primus bottle from under the fly sheet of my tent. This meant that I was going to be unable to cook on my stove. Normally gas is not available in Greenland so we all had stoves that could be powered by petrol. Martin had arranged for a supply of petrol and this had been distributed the night before with all team members carrying one metal bottle of petrol and two coke bottle sized plastic bottles. The thieves had taken the metal bottle complete with the Primus pump.<br />
So, <b>be warned</b> there are thieving scum anywhere in this world where there other humans.<br />
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Fortunately, this year the local supermarket Pilersoq had taken to stocking gas canisters and I was able to purchase sufficient for the trip.<br />
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We completed our preparations, purchased provisions from the supermarket and by lunchtime we were ready to head off. The weather was perfect, light winds and clear blue skies.<br />
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The first objective was a prominent headland just outside of Tasiilaq Harbour or by its correct name Kong Oscars Haven. This headland is known as The Vikings Nose and could cause us problems if the ice had collected here to block our progress.<br />
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We rounded the headland with no problems and settled into the routine of ice paddling.<br />
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The ice is constantly moving. It is being subjected to wind and tide and is melting quite rapidly so it is very unstable. We were briefed to basically stay clear of the ice. At times this was not possible so the risk increased significantly when passing close to icebergs. We followed various leads through the ice which took us into large ponds where the risk decreased.<br />
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Just one eighth of the ice berg is showing above water, the calve like glaciers and can roll over. When they roll ice below the water can rise and become areal hazard for a passing kayak.<br />
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When paddling in a lead the drill was to close up tight so that we were paddling as 'one kayak' this reduced the chances of us becoming separated. We were also warned that we may have to paddle with spray decks off in order to facilitate a rapid exit if the ice posed a threat to crush our kayak.<br />
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As a team we were able to settle into this routine and made good progress. There was a constant temptation to stop and take photos but this had to be controlled to minimise the risk to ourselves or the group.<br />
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The bergs get blown into shallow water by the wind or the tide and settled on the sea bed. When the tide recedes it leaves the bergs exposed and very unstable. When they topple they virtually explode rather like glass breaking.<br />
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This was an exposed piece of coastline with no land to seaward to protect us but the ice dampened any swell.<br />
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We stopped for a bar break in a sheltered cove next to a hunters hut.<br />
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Our objective was Ikateq an empty village on the east side of Sermilik Fjord.<br />
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We arrived at the village late afternoon and set up camp near the large timber frame used for drying meat.<br />
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After our evening meal we went for a walk around the village.<br />
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The church and schoolhouse were unlocked and are very much untouched since the villagers left some twenty years ago.<br />
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The view from the adjacent hill gave us a good indication on the amount of ice that lay ahead for the next two days paddling.<br />
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We collected wood for a fire and congregated on the beach for a bit of target practice with the shotgun.<br />
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The weapon is a necessity due to the presence of polar bears in the area. It was also necessary for us to mount a bear watch during the night. So we set up a rota allowing us to stand watch for one hour each night. We moved the times forward each night which meant we all covered the full eight hours during our trip. Bear watch interrupted our sleep but the light made up for the inconvenience and the time passed quickly.<br />
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James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-81024127949783231952013-08-24T19:42:00.001+01:002013-09-24T08:38:39.885+01:0014 Days in Greenland - 1The idea of going for a paddle in Greenland was first suggested in April 2012. This was followed by nearly eighteen months of preparation before the trip commenced on 02 August 2013.<br />
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I made a few enquiries to find the best provider for such a trip and Martin Rickard of s<a href="http://www.seakayakadventures.co.uk/">ea kayak adventures</a> came highly recommended. I therefore booked my trip and I am pleased to say that I was not disappointed with my choice. Martin lives in the Shetlands but he also has a base at Tasiilaq on the East coast of Greenland.<br />
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It is from Tasiilaq that Martin starts his trips and he is resident here for most of July and August each year.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">In the harbour is a distribution facility which loads the supply boat that visits the settlements in the surrounding area during late June early July to September or until the ice returns and prevents it from sailing.</span><br />
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Greenland is the largest island in the world with Australia being classed as a continent.<br />
The west coast of Greenland is generally more sheltered than the east coast and it is here that most of the population live. The capital city Nuuk is also on the west coast. The east coast is remote and is exposed to the ravages of the North Atlantic and I was under no illusion that it takes no prisoners.<br />
This is the reason I gave myself the time to acquire my equipment and physically prepare for the challenge.<br />
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Our group was made up of ten paddlers most of whom had never met before. This is quite a large group for an expedition type trip such as this. Martin had a number two ( Pete) to assist and it was going to be interesting for me to see how such a group of ten interacted over the two weeks to hopefully mould into a team.<br />
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On Friday 02 August I travelled to Heathrow for my flight to Iceland. After an overnight stop in Reykjavik I made my way to the domestic airport where I met the rest of the team.<br />
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We then flew to Kulusuk Aiport. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kulusuk">Kulusuk</a> is one of a group of islands situated just off the Greenland east coast.<br />
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The plan was to meet a boat at the small jetty approximately one kilometre from the airport. However, there is a lot of ice around this year and the airport jetty was closed out by ice.<br />
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The Greenland Ice Cap is melting at such a rate that the increased quantity of glacier ice in the fjords is lowering the sea temperature. The annual winter ice and sea ice is then not melting fast enough to unblock the fjords. On top of this the pack ice coming down from the north is also exacerbating to the problem.<br />
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Our boat was 3 Km away at the main jetty in the town of Kulusuk.<br />
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We persuaded the local policeman to take our bags to the jetty in his pick up and we set out on our first Greenland trek.<br />
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Once we had located the boat we scrambled down a non existent ladder and settled our selves into the back of the boat.<br />
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Greenland has a population of 56,000 people and 80,000 dogs. The dogs are tethered for most of the time in the warmer months and fed every two/three days. Their food is traditionally seal meat and next to the boat was a hunters fridge.<br />
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The boat had to push its way through the ice but once out of the harbour we had a thrilling ride through the ice across the entrance to Angmagssalik Fjord to <a href="http://www.tasiilaq.net/">Tasiilaq</a>. The weather was stunning, the Sea Goddess Nerrivick /<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sedna_(mythology)">Sedna</a> had prepared an excellent welcome for us.<br />
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We met up with Martin and Pete on the rocks just outside Tasiilaq near to the town refuse dump and the heliport.<br />
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The campsite is an area of uneven rough ground normally used for tethering dogs. There is a beach close by suitable for launching and recovering loaded sea kayaks and it is within walking distance of the town and Martins base. Therefore, logistics outweighed comfort and it was only for one night.<br />
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We set up camp and set about preparing our kayaks and kit ready for the following days departure.<br />
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It was also time to make the aquaintance of some of the local residents namely dogs, mosquitoes and hundreds of flies.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-9566301547293901842013-04-21T16:39:00.001+01:002013-04-21T16:39:33.207+01:00Strumble Head<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Strumble Head is situated just above 52 degrees North, 52 01.' 005 04.' to be precise, on the West Wales coast line. The focal point of the head is the lighthouse built on Ynys Meicl which is one of a number of small islands just off the headland.</div>
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The mainland together with the islands form a peninsular jutting out into the Irish Sea. Consequently the tides can flow fast here and tide races form North and South of the headland on both the ebb and flood tides. The islands can also create strong currents of their own which vary at different states of the tide. This all makes for an interesting place to paddle a sea kayak.</div>
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The forecast was for light variable winds and a sunny day. High tide Milford Haven was 14.45 so we decided to paddle South to North. The wind forecast is often understated and this would put the wind behind us for most of the trip.</div>
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A further tidal issue occurs in Fishguard Bay where a large eddy forms on the flood tide and runs for nine hours. This eddy extends all the way back to Pen Anglas which would be the last headland for us to paddle round. We therefore had a three hour window to paddle from Strumble Head to Fishguard Bay.</div>
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We launched in ideal conditions at Abercastle just south of Fishguard having left some of our cars in the car park at Goodwick next to the ferryport.<br />
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Abercastle has a small car park on the quay. We moved some of the cars up the road to leave more space for other visitors. There is a nominal £1 voluntary launch fee to help towards the maintenance of the quay and car park.<br />
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We turned North out of the harbour and enjoyed a spot of rock hopping along the way.</div>
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The wind was indeed stronger than we forecasted but was behind us which meant that we had made the right decision to go South to North.</div>
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After 3 Nm we reached the first headland at Penbwchdy. A small rock, Carreg Bwch-du sits a few hundred metres off the headland and we found confused water in the gap between the mainland and the rock.<br />
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It was a neap tide and with the wind behind us we did not have a problem rounding the point.<br />
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The next feature was Pen Brush where a tide race can form on the North going tide. Again this was not an issue for us.<br />
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There was plenty of wild life to keep our attention. We saw Seals, Guillemots, Razorbills, Cormorants although the numbers of sea birds flying about appear to be less than normal which is disappointing<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Eventually we got our first view of Strumble Head.</span></div>
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We had an explore around the islands.<br />
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It was great place to have your picture taken.<br />
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Access to the lighthouse is via a steel bridge over a channel which dries out at low tide. We made our way to the North side of Ynys Meicl to get out of the wind and had our lunch on the sides of the channel.<br />
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The lighthouse was built in 1908 and automated in 1980. More information here: <a href="http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/lighthouses/lighthouse_list/strumble_head.html">http://www.trinityhouse.co.uk/lighthouses/lighthouse_list/strumble_head.html</a><br />
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After the lighthouse there were once again many opportunities to go rockhopping. In one cave some of our group had a very close encounter with a surprised bull seal.<br />
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Approximately 2nm after Strumble Head is Carregwasted Point. This is another smaller headland which is the site of the last invasion of mainland Britain. An oberlisk just visible from the sea marks the spot. It does not seem logical that a landing would take place on cliffs such as these, but just passed the headland is an inlet marked as Aber Felin on the chart which would make a much better place to put troops ashore.<br />
The invasion took place in 1797 more information here: <a href="http://www.fishguardonline.com/Last_Inv.html">http://www.fishguardonline.com/Last_Inv.html</a><br />
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The Stena line ferry travels between Fishguard and Rosslare.<br />
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Luckily the Ferry left before we got to the breakwater at Fishguard.<br />
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We rounded Pen Anglas exactly at the time we had calculated.<br />
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We had a short break in the lee of the breakwater before the final leg back to Goodwick into the head wind.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-43756204217994959672013-04-07T20:42:00.000+01:002013-04-07T20:42:06.654+01:00Freshwater West to Stackpole QuayThe weather forecast was looking good for Saturday 06 April 2013 so a group of us got together and headed for south Pembrokeshire. We were not disappointed and we left Freshwater West beach in near prefect conditions.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We paddled south east towards Linney Head</td></tr>
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On the ebb tide an eddy forms here and there is sometimes disturbed water off Linney Head where the eddy meets the main flow of the out going tide. Today however the tide had just turned so we received some tidal assistance across the bay but no disturbed water.</div>
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The calm conditions allowed us to do some exploring amongst the rocks and stacks.</div>
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There were also numerous caves which could be paddled into. This one was the largest.</div>
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About four miles into the paddle we arrived at the Green Bridge of Wales. This is a spectacular sea arch which can be paddled through near high water. There is also a viewing platform for walkers on the cliff path. This section of coast transits a military firing range so this can only be viewed from the path or the water on weekends or on days when no firing is taking place.</div>
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Near St Govans head we had a photo shoot in front of the small St Govans Chapel which is built into the cliffs.</div>
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We had lunch on the sandy beach of Broad Haven and then continued our journey past Church Rock.</div>
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Next stop was Stackpole Head.</div>
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There were no sea birds nesting on the ledges. They seem to be very late this year which is probably due to the spell of very cols weather. This was a bonus because it allowed us to paddle through the arches under the headland.</div>
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Just after Stackpole Head is Barafundle Bay which has a nice sandy beach and even more caves and arches. It was only a short distanced from here to our get out at Stackpole Quay.</div>
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This was a great leisurely paddle of approximately 11 miles with almost constant caves, stacks and rockhopping.</div>
James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-1087809651962350052012-06-19T15:19:00.000+01:002012-08-15T17:24:46.065+01:00Staffa and Fingals Cave<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Staffa or Pillar Island, using its Norse translation, is a small island situated approximately 10km off the west coast of Mull. It is one of the Treshnish Isles which form part of the Inner Hebrides. Staffa is world famous for its volcanic Basalt rock columns and the numerous spectacular caves around its coast line. The most famous cave being Fingals Cave.</div>
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This island should be on any self respecting sea kayakers tick list.</div>
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We chose to launch from Ulva Ferry one of the places we whizzed past on our cycle ride the day before.<br />
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Boat trips leave Ulva Ferry for visits to the Treshnish Isles and Staffa. Parking is limited so we dropped the boats off near the slip and parked further up the road so as to not upset the locals.<br />
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The Boathouse on Ulva is a licensed tea room with a lovely sea food menu which includes local oysters.<br />
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The ferry takes visitors over to Ulva a delightful looking island which is privately owned and a nature reserve with hundreds of birds plus deer and otters.<br />
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The paddle out of the sound gave us some of the best views yet.<br />
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Once out of the Sound of Ulva we proceeded along the South shore of the island along Loch na Keall. On the way we passed the obligatory fish farm.<br />
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The views over to Ben More were stunning.<br />
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We stopped for a brew stop on Little Colonsay a little island at the entrance to the Loch. Amazingly there is a house built on the island which must be a lovely place to hide away for a while. There were no beaches on the island which gave for an interesting launch and landing.<br />
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The south side of Little Colonsay is littered with small caves and blow holes.<br />
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We left the shelter of Loch na Keall and from the lee of Little Colonsay we got our first view of the crossing to Staffa. The conditions were a little lumpy with a stiff north wind but nothing to worry about so we set off.<br />
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All the way across we could see the other Treshnish Islands around us. Geometra to the north and Lunga in the distance.<br />
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The impressive looking Dutchmans Cap.<br />
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About 45mins later we were nearly across and being caught up by the Ulva Ferry tour boat Tarus Mor.<br />
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Staffa covers 33 hectares and is 42m high at its highest point. The island is owned by the National Trust for Scotland. There is a small sheltered quay on the East side and it is here that the tour boats land.<br />
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On the west side and south west corner the basalt columns tower above the sea.<br />
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There are several large caves on the south west corner the most impressive, although not the deepest, is Fingals Cave.<br />
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The cave is named after the Irish warrior with the cool name of Fionn MacCool who it said built the Giants Causeway in Northen Ireland which has the same rock features.<br />
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Conditions were perfect, we managed right up to the back wall.<br />
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We made the most of the photo opportunity along with all the other boat trippers.<br />
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The main rock feature is known as The Colonade or Great Face.<br />
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The Gaelic name for Fingals Cave is An Uamh Bhin - The Melodius Cave. It was the inspiration for Felix Mendelssohn to compose his Hebridean Overture which premiered in London in 1832. Famous visitors to the cave have included Queen Victoria who like us entered the cave by boat.<br />
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We landed for a leg stretch and brew near to the quay and then explored the area around the unique rocky outcrop of Am Buachhaille.<br />
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All too soon it was time to head back cross to Mull.<br />
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The south shore of Ulva is littered with numerous small islands and white sandy beaches which are well worth exploring.<br />
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The rock columns protrude from the ground like organ pipes.<br />
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We landed back at Ulva Ferry some five hours later a site seeing trip of some 22 miles<br />
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James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-87372354259827752842012-06-12T19:56:00.000+01:002012-06-12T19:56:22.425+01:00Balamory LoopThe Fidden camp site filled to overflowing by the Sunday of the Jubilee week end and so it was time to depart and find a more peaceful spot.<br />
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We travelled back along Loch Scridain looking for a shop to buy some essentials such as milk. Be aware if you travel to Mull, it closes on a Sunday.<br />
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After about an hours drive we arrived at the head of Loch na Keall at the campsite at Killiechronan. The facilities were basic as in no showers but it is a fantastic place to pitch a tent, and it was quiet.<br />
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Sunday was riding day so we set off NW along the shore of the loch on the B8073. A typical Mull single track road with lots of passing places.<br />
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There were a couple of small climbs to get us warmed up but nothing to worry about.<br />
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Across the loch we could see cliffs and the Island of Inch Kenneth. Behind us was Ben More the highest peak on Mull.<br />
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It was not long before we were passing Ulva Ferry which was the launch point for tomorrow.<br />
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The first real climb of the day started at Kilninian and took us away from Loch an Keall up into the hills through the village of Burg. There were a couple of black arrows on the map so we were anticipating this.<br />
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Once over the top we had sea views once more, this time over to the islands of Coll and Tiree.<br />
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The road followed the coast. The strong NE wind was still blowing and the ride into Calgary Bay was none too pleasant.<br />
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After Calgary you soon arrive at Dervaig and leave the coast once more. this inevitably involves more climbing. Nothing on an Alpine scale but enough to get me into bottom ring and the blood pumping.<br />
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We stopped for a bar break at Loch Torr before climbing once more.<br />
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After a little down hill stretch and a spell of twitching which incidently is a big pastime on Mull we arrived on the outskirts of Tobermory (Balamory to kids)<br />
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A steep decent down from the hills leads you to quayside at Tobermory which was instantly recognisable.<br />
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Being a Sunday it was Miss Hooleys day off and Pocket and Sweets shop was closed.<br />
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The cafe on the quayside was open so we had some well earned food before we headed back up the big hill ( Niice after a tuna baked potato) out on to the A848.<br />
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The A848 follows the Sound of Mull towards the ferry port at Craignure.<br />
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We stayed on it as far as Salen where we turned right back through Grueline and the campsite at Killiechronan.<br />
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A ride of 44 miles with superb views and a couple of testing climbs.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-35922995789853280302012-06-12T18:52:00.001+01:002012-06-12T18:52:49.179+01:00Circumnavigation of Iona<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Jubilee weekend and fine weather resulted in a quick trip to the west coast of Scotland and a visit to one of our favourite places - The Isle of Mull.<br />
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We caught the half past ten ferry from Oban on Friday evening and I crawled into my new tent about half one Saturday morning having left Bridgend at six am Friday. Not a bad effort I thought.<br />
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Saturday morning dawned with fine weather and noisy kids. Fidden campsite was packed. We had a relaxed breakfast and waited for the tide.<br />
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There was quite a strong NE wind so the plan was to travel clockwise around Iona taking advantage of any shelter from the wind that we could find on the west side. We also hoped to get a push from the flood tide up the west side and then use the ebb tide to travel back down the sound of Iona to Fidden with the wind behind us.<br />
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We launched from the beach at Fidden and headed over to the south end of Iona<br />
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We rounded the southern end of the island without incident and passed close to the bay where St Columba is reputed to have landed in 563. There were a couple of small overfalls between the main land and some small islands which increased our speed to over six knots and briefly added to the excitement.<br />
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There was a swell running up the west side so we kept well out from the beach at The Bay at the Back of the Island. This was a shame because we wanted to go and have a closer look but we did not relish getting trashed in the surf.<br />
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At the north end of the island there are some beautiful white sandy beaches which you can see from miles away, this is where we decided to stop and have a brew.<br />
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It was an excellent place to stop and wait for the tide to turn.<br />
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After our brew stop we rounded the top of the island and headed into the Sound of Iona with the wind behind us and the tide just starting to turn.<br />
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The island is 1.6 Km wide and 5.6 Km long.The highest point is Dun i a small hill near to the north end of the island behind the monastery. It is 101m high and is the site of an Iron age fort. Apparently on clear day you can see Ireland from here.<br />
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The monastery was founded by St Columba after his enforced exile from Ireland. It is a very spiritual place and the burial site for 48 Kings from Scotland (Alba) 8 from Norway and 4 from Ireland.<br />
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We had a brief stop at the village of Baille Mor. This is where the ferry from Fionnphort docks and is where most of the visitors to the island first experience the atmosphere of the place.<br />
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After a little bit of ferry dodging we headed over to Fidden and a welcome tea.<br />
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<br />James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-71334912132684646322011-10-09T17:43:00.001+01:002011-10-09T17:50:52.645+01:00The Mythical Ascent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Mythical Ascent is the legendary road climb from the town of Bourg d'Oisans (700m) in the Rhone Region of the French Alps to the ski resort of Alpes D'Huez (1860m)</div>
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The Alpes d'Huez climb has regularly featured in the Tour de France itinerary since 1976 having made its first appearance in 1952. Its is reputedly the most challenging and well known of all the TDF alpine climbs. Having attempted both the Alpes d'Huez and Galibier climbs it may well be the most famous but I would dispute the fact that it is the most challenging. However it is surely on the 'To Do List' of any self respecting cyclist so had to be done.</div>
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We started our climb after a warm up and a Pain o'chocolate from the boulangerie in Bourg.<br />
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The official start of the route was directly outside the entrance to the campsite. There are 21 hairpins on the route each one named after a stage winner of the TDF. There are so many winners now that the lower bends now have two names on them.<br />
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The steepness of the first part of the climb came as a bit of a shock. I had not looked around the corner from the campsite. The average gradient of the climb is 7.9% and the steepest section is up to 14%. The climb to bend 21 (806m) and then on to 17 (965m) is some of the steepest on the route.<br />
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It is only when you get to the village of La Garde is there any respite and you have a chance for a small recovery.<br />
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The church steeple at La Garde is a welcome sight and you can start to settle into some sort of rhythm.<br />
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I always rode around the outside of the bends and alternatively drank energy drink and water.<br />
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After bend 14 the road kicks up again but the view shows how far you have climbed and you start to feel a sense of achievement.<br />
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Bend 12 (1161 m) and up to 9 brings you back to reality with a bump as the gradient once again kicks up.<br />
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The hamlet of Sainte - Ferrol is next with its church of Notre Dame des Neiges and the famous Dutch Corner. This section has been adopted by the Dutch due to the number of Dutch winners of this stage of the TDF. The stage up Alpes d'Huez always attracts huge numbers of spectators and the scenes can only be descibed as chaotic.<br />
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The village of Huez is next.<br />
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Bend 5 - 2 are equally as steep as the section to La Garde and take you across the Patte d'oile. The psychological difference here is immense. At the start you wonder if you can actually pedal to the top. At bend 5 there is noway you are going to fail. To quote Lance Armstrong ' you only get off when the snow turns black' that is how I felt at this point.<br />
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Bend 1 (1713m) and you can see Viell Alpe (the old village). This allows you to up your speed because you know that you are going to finish it.<br />
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The finishing line is a welcome sight.<br />
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The strange thing is that the arrival banner is not the same as the stage finish of the TDF, but this is where all the shops are. So it makes sense to stop for refreshments and a shop for the statutory T shirt.<br />
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The official finish line is a little further up through the ski resort.<br />
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Once on the line you have to have your picture taken in the normal triumphal manner.<br />
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Not content with just climbing Alp d'Huez we decided to ride the Col d'Sarrenne, which meant going up again. The airport had an unusual runway which allows planes to stop quickly.<br />
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The views above Alpe d'Huez were typically alpine.<br />
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The descent was awesome and I reached the fastest speed of the trip down here.<br />
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This house provided a point of discussion. I wonder if the house was there first?<br />
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We headed back to Bourg along the main road through some scary tunnels and down some interesting descents.<br />
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A great ride.<br />
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<a href="http://connect.garmin.com/activity/106556867#">http://connect.garmin.com/activity/106556867#</a>James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6342434578206799206.post-31118135375432149602011-08-16T20:12:00.000+01:002011-08-16T20:12:19.836+01:00Les 2 Alpes to Venosc<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">We parked near to the village of Venosc (900m) in the lovely Oissans region not far from the mythological Alpes d'Huez and caught the gondola up to Les deux Alpes also known as Les 2 Alpes (1650m)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">From here we took the Jandri Express cable car which took us 7km up the mountain to the foot of the Mantel Glacier 3200m in 24 mins</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This glacier is the largest summer ski area in Europe. It was strange to cycle through the town passing skiers and snow boarders all dressed up in their gear in a temperature of 20 degrees.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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By the time we reached the summit the temperature was down to 4 degrees.<br />
There are stunning alpine views from here even across to Mont Blanc approx 62 miles to the north<br />
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We started our ride down on the blue Nord route which was very steep in places with a loose stoney surface.<br />
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We rode across various pisted areas.<br />
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When we had the chance we stopped to admire the view and pose for photographs.<br />
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Les 2 Alpes is very popular in the summer with both downhill and free ride mountain biking.<br />
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We crossed over from the blue Nord to the red Vallons trail. The terrain changed to more typical alpine style with green pastures and wild flowers but it was still incredibly steep with switchback after switch back.<br />
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There were quite a few timber features thrown in for good measure.<br />
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The last section from Les 2 Alpes down to Venosc was basically a ride down a cliff with huge berms to slow you down.<br />
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An exciting ride to complete a great visit to the area.James Murrayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08061068102505417450noreply@blogger.com0